Isle royale

[shelb]

I plan to take my teenage sons there this next summer (2013). We will probably go somewhere between mid July and mid August. Both boys and I are experienced backpackers (270 miles of the AT (Waynesboro, VA to Rausch Gap, PA, 50 miles of Pictured Rocks on NCT, 60 other miles of the NCT).

I am trying to determine what we should do on IR. While we last did 12-25 miles/day on the AT in PA, the boys say they want to take it easier on this next trip. I figure that since we do not have the elevation changes, 8-15 miles a day should be very reasonable and less challenging. We did enjoy the shelters on the AT, so it would be nice to take advantage of them on I.R.

We will be coming from the LP of Michigan.

Ideas?? (or even a list of MUST do's???) Plus, any links to more information would be greatly appreciated!!!

[slow mind]

Come on over to isleroyaleforums.com we would be happy to help! my username there is drobarge

[Northern Lights]

Make sure to report back, I'm doing IR next year.

[Odd Man Out]

I did not remember that they had shelters on IR, so I looked it up the books and publications I have my trip there in 1984 (I still have it all!). This includes the book by DuFresne http://www.amazon.com/Isle-Royale-Na.../dp/0983015007 I have a first edition. It is now in its 4th. This is a very comprehensive guide for all the trails so reading through this you should be able to put together a good trip. I recommend getting it.

Unfortunately, the shelters are not well situated for backpackers. Only 9 of the 21 campgrounds you can hike to have shelters. Several of these are clustered on the NE shore (too close together for a good day's hike). Others are at the end of dead-end trails, so you would do a lot of backtracking to stay there. You can probably work in some shelters (Moskey Basin, McCargo Cove, Daisy Farm maybe the most convenient), but you will probably have to figure on camping some.

The logistics of IR are tricky. Coming from the LP, you will be taking the boat to and from Rock Harbor, I presume. So you have to do a loop hike ending up back at RH. The only other option is to take the Voyageur to a trail head further down the coat and hike back to RH. This will add a lot to the cost of your trip, but it does open up a lot more hiking options on the southern end of the island.

As for a list of Must See Attractions? We were only day hiking our of Rock Harbor when we were there, so we only saw a bit of the island. In general, I would say that IRNP is not about major attractions. The feel of the wilderness everywhere is what makes it great. Although I had one of my best ever days on a canoe trip across Tobin Harbor to Lookout Louise. The harbor was dead calm and the sky had no clouds. In the middle of the harbor we stopped paddling to watch a moose swim across the harbor. Then I looked over the edge of the boat. The water was so clear and still, I could see probably 50 feet down to the bottom and see a whole forest of giant water logged trees that had sunk to the bottom of the harbor. They could easily have been several hundred years old as wood doesn't rot down there very fast. At one point, the water being so clear and still essentially became invisible and I suddenly had the sensation that I was floating 50 feet above the ground. With nothing visible between me and the bottom of the harbor, I had a brief panic attack, thinking that I was about to fall. I grabbed the rails of the canoe to brace myself from the fall. Rocking the boat disturbed the water and eliminated the illusion. It was a most bizarre experience. On the opposite shore, we hiked the short trail up to Lookout Louise. The view of Duncan Bay and the remote NW coast of the island was amazing. Then in the middle of the dark blue water, the light blue sky, and the deep green forest we say this bright canary-yellow canoe paddling across Duncan Bay. It was very cool. That night at the lodge we saw that canoe close up, tied up to the dock by the Dining Hall. It was a hand-made all wood boat - very beautiful. Then on the way to the dining hall we saw a fox in the bushes. He was stalking some ducks that were on the sidewalk at the waters edge, right by the yellow canoe. Then a group of about a dozen Japanese visitors came out of the dining hall and walked down the path between the fox and the ducks. That is when the fox timed his attack. He darted out into the middle of the Japanese, who scattered in all directions, as did the ducks. The fox went away hungry, the Japanese were scared to death, we were laughing, and the ducks were swimming in the harbor by the yellow canoe.

[Odd Man Out]

PS - Did you know that on Isle Royale your will find Ryan Island? It is the largest island on the largest lake on the largest island on the largest lake.

[prain4u]

We have communicated by private message. But let me make a couple posts here too:

Shelters on Isle Royale are few and far between. Usually only on the campsites along lake Superior. They are "first come first served". People do not pack shelters with people and share them the way that they do on the AT. Be prepared to camp at every campsite. if you get a shelter--count it as a blessing. (On some trips, I have had no problem getting a shelter. Some nights, it was not possible).

I think you will find the trails on Isle Royale a bit more challenging than you think. Most guide books and web sites recommend 6-10 mile days. (I average 15 mile days--and that is a big day of hiking for most people on Isle Royale.

Jim DuFresne has been the author of almost 20 guidebooks, including: "Backpacking in Michigan", "50 Hikes in Michigan", "Best Hikes with Children: Michigan" and "Isle Royale National Park: Foot Trails and Water Routes". In one article he wrote the following about the Minong Ridge Trail on Isle Royale:

"Few backpackers who have walked this 29-mile route will argue (with you) that it is one tough trek. It's not only the most challenging stretch of the park's 161-mile trail system, it is arguably the hardest hike in Michigan. Maybe in the Midwest.....Part of the challenge of Minong Ridge is the amount of time needed to hike it. The trail itself is a three- to four-day walk from McCargoe Cove Campground to Windigo, the park's ferry port at the west end of the island. But most backpackers need another two days to reach McCargoe Cove from Rock Harbor, the park's port of entry at the east end that services the ferries from Michigan."

Allow me to emphasize--most people take 3-4 days to hike this 29 mile section of trail. I think that says it all.

[prain4u]

I saw this on a website--and I have read this quote in various places regarding hiking on Isle Royale:

"Many people underestimate hiking travel times and overestimate their abilities. Plan shorter, realistic travel days; don’t turn your wilderness trek into a forced march. The average hiking distance per day is 6-8 miles for beginning backpackers and 8-10 miles for experienced backpackers."

[Bear-bait]

I would do the Minong ridge trail, which spans the northern side of the island. Even though, it does not have elevation, this trail is very rough It reminds me of several sections in Maine. Mosquitos can be crazy, so be prepared. I've hiked the island in May, just after it opened and in October just before it closes. My preference is in the fall, during the rut, but you will have a great time anytime during the hiking season.

[Lyle]

Been to Isle Royale many times. My favorite time to go is very late Aug. into mid to late Sept. Way fewer people, way fewer bugs, and the Thimble Berries are ripe! Only two drawbacks to this time, the moose are entering their rutting season, so they become much more territorial and can be obnoxious (dangerous- actually got "tree'd" by one for about 45 minutes). Also the Lake Superior weather is becoming more fickle, so your ferry may well be delayed for a day or two picking you up - always schedule some extra time at the end of your trip. Two of my trips were extended due to bad weather, one for about 10 hours, the other for 36 hours.

Shelters, yeah a very different system then on the AT. Some popular campgrounds may have 20 shelters, others one, most none. They are first come, first serve. Unless you happen upon other AT seasoned hikers, don't expect to share them with other hiking groups.

Mileage: I agree don't overestimate. The trails, while not mountains, are crossing rock outcroppings, particularly the Minong Ridge Trail. Constant up and down with loose rock footings takes it's toll. Also most climbs up to the Greenstone Ridge are steep and sometimes brutal climbs. You don't say how many days you plan to be on the island, so it's tough to recommend any hikes or even any "must see" locations. How old are your boys? I've hiked there with 14 year-olds and with a six year-old.

Consider breaking up the hiking with some canoeing - they rent them at Rock Harbor. A short portage over to Tobin Harbor offers some really nice, peaceful flat water paddling Or if more adventurous, try Paddling Rock Harbor - less protected, but many folks do it. One trip, we took our own canoes. We had a large group, so we split up. Half hiked to McCargo Cove the other half paddled there. We met up, passed off the canoes and each group did the opposite going back. Only attempt this if you are pretty experienced. Involved about six miles of open water canoeing with rock cliffs on shore - no place to put out when the water got rough. Was an absolute great trip, however.

Some highlights, in no particular order: Scoville Point, Minong Mine, Ojibway Fire Tower, Feldman Ridge Fire Tower, Washington Harbor, Minong Ridge Trail, Little Todd Harbor Campground (try to camp in the group site, out on the point of the pennisula - GREAT site), Tobin Harbor Trail, Lake Richie, Lake Desore campgrounds (both are nice). As you can see if you are looking at the map and comparing to the mentioned areas, the entire Island is GREAT. One place to avoid if possible, East Chicken Bone Lake Campground - pretty nasty campsite. West Chicken Bone is fine.

Good Luck, and Have a great time. I believe it is still true that Isle Royale National Park is the least visited, but has the longest average visitor stay of any National Park. Due in no small part to the logistics of getting to and from the Island.

[4Bears]

The Isle is a great place to go, Lane cove is a very nice but is a dead end trail, it is a shallow bay with sandy bottom and warms up quick for swimming. McCargo cove is a favorite of mine plus you can go explor the old mine, slag piles and equipment. Moskey Basin and Daisy Farm can be a bit noisey, but the hike up to Lake Richey is very quiet. You will no doubt see eagles, osprey, gray jays, red squirrels, fox, moose, maybe a beaver, and if very lucky a wolf. I am planning a trip up there in June over the solstice, it will be the earliest I have gone, usually go the 2nd or 3rd week of August, low number of bugs and plenty of trailside thimble berries, and a few blue berries. 8-12 mpd are very possible, if you are in reasonable shape, the nice thing about hiking is it isn't a race. The I.R. forums page mentioned earlier is a good scource, you can p.m. me if you want.

[SCRUB HIKER]

PS - Did you know that on Isle Royale your will find Ryan Island? It is the largest island on the largest lake on the largest island on the largest lake.

Not true at all. That title goes to Treasure Island, which is on Lake Mindemoya on Manitoulin Island on Lake Huron. Isle Royale is only the fifth-largest lake island in the world.

I'm enjoying all the useful Isle Royale info. It's been on my checklist since one of my friends did a research project there and came back raving about it.

[grayfox]

Lots of good advice above...I second the need for shorter hiking days--think Maine at low altitude. The wolf pack and moose have been having a hard time of late but you want to plan on tenting at the interior campsites for the best chance of seeing them or hearing them. Water can be a problem at times so take a few platys or the like for a possible dry camp. Be sure to get the big map for the fun of it and for the water information--even though you can get by without it. Check with the ranger on the boat for current info on trails and water quality. Take a filter, there is said to be tape worms and chemical treatment is not effective for that. This is sure to be a trip your kids will remember for many years. The place is very special.

[bfayer]

Not true at all. That title goes to Treasure Island, which is on Lake Mindemoya on Manitoulin Island on Lake Huron. Isle Royale is only the fifth-largest lake island in the world.

I'm enjoying all the useful Isle Royale info. It's been on my checklist since one of my friends did a research project there and came back raving about it.

Actually he is right. If you reread his statement "the largest island on the largest lake" Since Superior is the largest lake, and Isle Royale is the largest island on lake Superior, he is correct. You are correct about the largest island but that is Lake Michigan.

[SCRUB HIKER]

Actually he is right. If you reread his statement "the largest island on the largest lake" Since Superior is the largest lake, and Isle Royale is the largest island on lake Superior, he is correct. You are correct about the largest island but that is Lake Michigan.

I'll concede it. Sorry for misreading at first.

[bfayer]

I have been to Isle Royale several times, and hiked end to end twice. The most recent was two summers ago with my kids.

The shelters are nice, but as stated not used the way they are on the AT. Unfortunately because the shelters are at locations that are served by the water taxi, they get filled up very early with rich people that hire the water taxi to take them from campground to campground, in a strange sudo car camping way, bringing coolers, and lawn chairs, etc. It's kind of disheartening to hike all day, show up at McCargoe Cove and find all the shelters filled with people like a state park, but that is the way it is. The good news is there are some outstanding places to camp away from the water taxi crowd if you don't mind walking.

As for mileage, the trails can be a little tougher than they look (but easily doable for experienced hikers), so I would recommend taking it easy the first could of days. On our last trip we spent the first night at Daisy Farm (7 or so miles from RH) and that is about right, since you don't get to the island till late morning if you take to Queen out of Copper Harbor.

The Geenstone Ridge trail is pretty easy, and follows the center ridge of the island, but I prefer staying off it as much as possible because it is also the most popular. The Minong Ridge Trail is a tougher trail, lots of PUDs and a little more difficult to follow (not a lot of blazes, just cairins), I like the views you get of Superior, so I like it better than the Greenstone for that reason too. It is doable for kids that are used to hiking (I did it the first time when I was 14, just me and my 16 yo brother). On the hike 2 years ago, I had my 11 yo and 16 yo with me. We did 50 miles end to end in 5 easy days.

You need to plan an extra day to get off the island. On this last trip we hiked from RH to Windigo and took the seaplane back to RH, so we could take the Queen back to CH.

Enjoy you trip. Isle Royale is a special place well worth the extra effort to get there.

[Odd Man Out]

I'll concede it. Sorry for misreading at first.

It's OK SCRUB. I'll admit the statement is a bit of a trick with syntax. But there is a technicality that makes you correct. Because Lake Michigan and Huron are connected by a deep water strait and are at the same elevation above sea level, they could technically be considered one lake with two parts. In this case, Lake Michigan-Huron would in fact be the largest lake (by area) and Manitoulin Island becomes the largest island in the largest lake! (See Note 1 at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_lakes_by_area ). Of course all of this all assumes we ignore the Caspian Sea (largest "lake", but salt water) and Lake Baikal (largest by volume).

[shelb]

It's OK SCRUB. I'll admit the statement is a bit of a trick with syntax. But there is a technicality that makes you correct. (largest by volume).

Talk about a gentleman: someone who admits when another person is correct!

WOW! Everyone is providing great information! I have been reading a couple Isle Royal books by Dufresne.

More details on our trip:
DATE: Last week of July to first 10 days of August timeperiod
FERRY: Well, I think we will avoid "Barf Merry" and take the Ranger from Houghton. Luckily for us, I am flexible as to the departure date. We are actually more tied up by my boys' sports calendars.
PRIORITIE: See moose and see other hikers at the end of the day. My boys really liked the socialization aspect of the AT when we finished hiking each day. That is one of the main reasons we liked the shelters; however, I realize from posts about IR, the shelter culture isn't the same here. Plus, the shelter locations might not correspond with our priorities.
EXPENSES on IR: Well, the canoe trip posted by Odd Man Out sounds awesome....that would be an extra cost. Plus, I am not opposed to paying for a shuttle to take us from one side of the island to another at the end of our hike, so we can cover more ground without having to hike back. By my figuring, this is the last backpacking trip with both my boys, ages 14 and 16, before one leaves home, so I want to enjoy it (without breaking the bank, of course).

[prain4u]

Thanks for the details.

You wrote: "PRIORITIES: See moose and see other hikers at the end of the day. My boys really liked the socialization aspect of the AT when we finished hiking each day."

In my opinion, Isle Royale is not anywhere near as social as the AT. People tend to stick to themselves a whole lot more at camp. Not necessarily a lot of folks sitting around swapping stories during meal time or around a campfire on a regular basis. You may (or may not) have people who wish to socialize at sites that have a common boat dock (people congregating to purify water) and/or common fire ring. That is not to say that socialization doesn't happen. (I have met several new friends on Isle Royale hikes). I wouldn't bank on social interaction happening often.

The Moose population is still somewhat down--but rising last year (and probably this year too). In recent years, many people are known to not see a moose during their entire trip. I generally see only one or two per trip--if I am lucky. The most that I have seen on one trip in the past five years is five moose (in 9 days). Hard to really predict where they will pop up. (15-20 years ago, it was nearly impossible to not see many moose on a trip to Isle Royale. They were everywhere). On my July 2012 trip, I saw no moose until my last night when I saw a cow and calf leisurely eating between two rental cabins at Rock Harbor--one of the busiest places on the Island. On my August 2012 trip, my hiking buddy and I didn't see a moose the whole 5 day trip--until we rented a canoe for our final few hours and we just happened to paddle up upon a young bull moose as it wadded in Washington Creek near Windigo. On the boat ride back home--as people swap stories about their hike--some people might report seeing 8+ moose and many will report seeing none or just one or two. The vast majority do not capture one in a good clear photo.

[prain4u]

Based upon your detailed information--itinerary choices are numerous! One thing to note, some lakes like Chickenbone--develop a toxic blue/green algae bloom in late summer and you cannot drink the water in those lakes. So, you must pack water in to those spots).

Five GENERAL itinerary options (each general option could have multiple sub-options):

1) Stay on the Eastern side of the Island and do a loop that returns you to Rock Harbor. Not additional boat ride needed. Many good options. I sent you one possible iteneray in my private message). Could rent canoe at Rock Harbor and do some day canoeing.

2) Cross the island by a bit more southerly route. Campgrounds you would hike past (or through) include: Rock Harbor, Three Mile, Daisy Farm, Moskey Basin, Lake Ritchey, West Chickenbone (most people avoid East Chickenbone--a rare few love it), Hatchet Lake, Lake Desor (south), Island Mine (a bit of a hike off of the Green Stone Ridge Trail) and Widigo/Washington Creek, If you still have time, do the Huginnin Cove Loop or a part of the Feldmann Loop on the West end of the island. Take boat back to Rock Harbor from Windigo. Spend last night at Rock Harbor. Probably more chance of being social at some of the sites on this route.

3) Go North and have a bit more rugged hike across the island via the Minong Ridge Trail. Perhaps more chance of seeing a moose. Lot less chance to being social. First you need to get to McCargoe Cove (usually two days of hiking from Rock Harbor). Couple possible routes to get to McCargoe Cove from Rock Harbor. (Rock Harbor, Three Mile, Daisy, Chickenbone, Mccargo Cove) or (Rock Habor, Lane Cove, McCargoe Cove) being the most likely. Either is good. If you wanted a greater chance of social contact, PROBABLY the first route is probably most likely. Stay at Three mile or Daisy Farm the first night and then push to McCargoe for the second night. I have had social interaction at McCargoe Cove when I have stayed there. Then hike to Windigo via the Minong Ridge Trail. Only three sites on that route. Todd Harbor, Little Todd Harbor and Lake Desor (North). McCargoe Cove to Todd Harbor is 6.7 miles. Todd Harbor to Little Todd Harbor 7.0 miles. Little Todd to Lake Desor (North) is 5.7 miles, Lake Desor (North) to Windigo/Washington Creek is 12.0 miles. You can divide that hike up however you wish. All the sites are equally good/bad in my opinion. I have enjoyed my stay at each of them. McCargoe Cove has six shelters. One shelter at Todd Harbor. None at Little Todd. None at Lake Desor. Ten shelters at Windigo/Washington Creek. You will need to spend a night at Windigo/Washington Creek and take boat back to Rock Harbor the next day.

4) Take the middle of the Island (Greenstone Ridge Trail) to Windigo and take boat back to Rock Harbor from Windigo. Probable route would pass through or near Three mile, Chickenbone (West), Hatchet Lake, Desor Lake (South) to Windigo/Washington Creek. I am guessing not a lot of social interaction on this route. Not much time spent on/near Lake Superior. You might see moose at the inland lakes and could go fishing.

5) Go to Rock Harbor. Spend the night. Next day, take a boat to either Chippewa Harbor or Malone Bay and hike back to Rock Harbor. I like both sites. Both have shelters. I would probably stay at them overnight on the day that I arrive at them via boat and only do a day hike from them on that day (especially from Chippewa Harbor). You could also take the boat all the way to Windigo and do options #2, #3, or #4 in reverse)


All of these are good options. Option # 4 would be my least favorite in late July/Early August. Due to POSSIBLE drinking water concerns at one or more inland lakes at that time of the year and due to the fact that you have limited time on Lake Superior and I like being on Lake Superior. (Option # 2 has the same drinking water concern--but probably not as severe as Option # 4. The algae bloom issue is a somewhat rare thing--but it does happen for a while on some lakes almost every year. You would not know when/where until you got on the Ranger III or the island itself)

Personally, I would probably choose option # 2 or # 3 (or do option # 5 all the way to Windigo and then do option #2 or # 3 in reverse). Option # 2 is probably more Social. Option # 3 is more scenic and rugged.

[bfayer]

Talk about a gentleman: someone who admits when another person is correct!

WOW! Everyone is providing great information! I have been reading a couple Isle Royal books by Dufresne.

More details on our trip:
DATE: Last week of July to first 10 days of August timeperiod
FERRY: Well, I think we will avoid "Barf Merry" and take the Ranger from Houghton. Luckily for us, I am flexible as to the departure date. We are actually more tied up by my boys' sports calendars.
PRIORITIE: See moose and see other hikers at the end of the day. My boys really liked the socialization aspect of the AT when we finished hiking each day. That is one of the main reasons we liked the shelters; however, I realize from posts about IR, the shelter culture isn't the same here. Plus, the shelter locations might not correspond with our priorities.
EXPENSES on IR: Well, the canoe trip posted by Odd Man Out sounds awesome....that would be an extra cost. Plus, I am not opposed to paying for a shuttle to take us from one side of the island to another at the end of our hike, so we can cover more ground without having to hike back. By my figuring, this is the last backpacking trip with both my boys, ages 14 and 16, before one leaves home, so I want to enjoy it (without breaking the bank, of course).

One thing to take into consideration is that the Ranger III arrives at the island after the Isle Royale Queen, and carries a lot more people. This creates a rush for the campsites and shelters at RH, Three mile, and Daisy Farm. The advantage of taking the queen is that you get there a little before lunch, go the the snack bar at the lodge, grab a pizza and ice cream for lunch and then hike on to Three Miles or Daisy Farm. Or just grab a Shelter at RH and then go eat.

You will not have anyplace to buy food again till you return to RH or get to Windigo. Which are also the only resupply points. You can send packages to yourself to the Voyager II and they will drop them on the dock of your choice for a small fee. If you are not there to pick them up, there is no guarantee that someone else will not take it.

One more word of warning. The fox on Isle Royale are dirty rotten thieves, and will steal you blind while you watch. Leave nothing unattended that you wish to keep. I have seen one running down the trail with a boot in its mouth. Now try walking back to RH with only one shoe