Have a solid recall!

[Dirty Nails]

I was recently asked how I keep my dog from chasing wildlife on the trail.

I will begin by stating that I do not propose to be anybody's expert or authority, so don't attack or bash me if you don't agree.
I solve the problem of "chasing" the same as for many dog issues. My answer is a ROCK SOLID RECALL.
I won't try to describe the details of achieving this because there are entire chapters, maybe even entire books on just this. Discussing training theory and techniques will take forever and open all kinds of "cans of worms". And it may be different for each dog.
One suggestion might be to find a local training club to work with. They can be very beneficial. There are also many books and DVD's available, but I think a good obedience club gives you the best advantage.

I have many commands, of coarse. But the "recall" is, I believe, the most valuable command one can have (by recall, I mean: COME, HERE, or whatever you use). Here's why.
One of the best ways to stop unwanted behavior is to substitute some other, acceptable behavior. For instance, if you want a dog to stop jumping on someone, substituting a "SIT" will solve it easily, without resorting to aversives. The dog simply cannot jump and sit at the same time.
A "recall" can be used to stop or prevent many unwanted behaviors on the trail such as running up to strangers, chasing wildlife, stepping on peoples sleeping bags, stealing or begging for food, getting other wet & muddy, going in the road, fighting with other dogs, scaring horseback riders and cyclists, etc. I always say that if you can call your dog to you, reliably, it will stay out of trouble. You may also find that your dog will be welcomed and embraced a lot more.
Or coarse you must clearly define what a recall is. I expect my dog to come and sit, in front, facing me, close enough to touch me. I also have a "HEEL" which means sit on my left side, or walk on my left side when I move. For most pet owners I think coming close enough to take hold of the collar is good enough. But I recommend that the dog sit because a dog is less likely to "break" away once it is sitting (more reliable).
The most important thing about training and maintaining a reliable recall is to never make the dog sorry it came to you, always try to make it glad it came to you. That means frequent rewards for coming, and never, never, never "correct" (punish) a dog after it came to you...no matter how angry you may be at him.
Of coarse there will come the time when he will disobey. And training to a level of reliability among all kinds of distractions can be quite a challenge. That's why I recommend an obedience training club. One where they are training for competition, if available. They usually have several trainers and members to help, and prepare there dogs for distractions. You don't need to train for the same precision, necessarily. But it's about RELIABILITY. If you can achieve that, you will be proud and confident to take your dog anywhere. You problem will then be fielding all the questions about how you got such a good dog!

[Amanita]

Thank you, I wish everyone shared this attitude. Your dog is cute when he's running towards you, and scary when he's running towards me.

[Kookork]

I will begin by stating that I do not propose to be anybody's expert or authority, so don't attack or bash me if you don't agree.

Why you think you should be an expert or autorithy of the field to write here?

It has very nice and practical tips.
I prefer a dog that naturally and not by training does not jump on others and does not run to roads and ....why?
Then I have enogh time and energy to focus on other things around me . The things that I am there to enjoy.
Dont get me wrong. training is the mainstone of every dog of every breed but the right breed makes it a lot more rewarding and enjoyble. I think in this subject we better agree to disagree considering our past trading post history.

[Miami Joe]

Thanks! Next question: Is a four-year-old dog to old to invest in these classes? In other words, can you teach an old dog new tricks?

[Doc Mike]

Thanks! Next question: Is a four-year-old dog to old to invest in these classes? In other words, can you teach an old dog new tricks?

Dogs and people are never to old to learn new things though it does get harder.

[Gaiter]

Thanks! Next question: Is a four-year-old dog to old to invest in these classes? In other words, can you teach an old dog new tricks?

yes old dogs can learn new tricks, a solid recall is a good thing especially for dogs who tend to react before thinking, personally i've taught my dog to look to me for permission, helps to establish that you the human are alpha and to have the dog in a submissive position (like hiking behind you), it make take time and patience but it can be done, my dog was alpha bitch when i first got her, couldn't even get her around other dogs, she is evidence that you can teach an old dog new tricks...
so instead of the dog chasing and me recalling, the dog first looks to me for permission to chase and looks sad and anxious after i tell her no its not happening. if its something she really wants to do, i reinforce the 'no' with having her to lay down which is an even more submissive position. 'okay' is my permission word, i do have to be careful not to use it in conversation that she could mistake for permission

[Nick&Bruce]

I've never met a dog that was too old to learn new tricks. I'm working on recall with Bruce right now. I'm taking him on day hikes once or twice a week and during these hikes I'll call him over and give him a treat each time. Repetition is key. I want him to associate coming to me when I call with a positive experience. I do this mostly when a) He goes out of my range of sight. b) When I see he's excited about a scent/sound/sight of wildlife. c) When we are approaching a source of drinking water. d) Randomly so he doesn't end up associating his recall comand with me trying to keep him from having fun.In addition to that, we are working on recall followed by leashing whenever a) When I see or hear hikers/horses ahead. c) When I know we are coming up to road crossing. c) When approaching a trailhead, building, or campsites.So far after only a few weeks he's doing great and he's getting close to 3 years old. I believe that this has worked so well for us because he respects me and wants to see his pack leader happy, and because I always make sure to let him know what behaviors are acceptable.

[Dirty Nails]

Miami Joe,

Yes, a 4 year old dog can certainly learn anything you want to teach it. It's all about motivation. If the dog likes food the most, use it. You could even use the dog's daily ration of kibble as training treats instead of feeding a large meal in one sitting. That way weight gain is not a problem. If the dog is toy crazy, use toys. It may be good to have one or two very special toys just for training. That keeps training time interesting for the dog (keep it short). Just make sure it's something the dog loves. If the dog loves to play tug, then boy you have a great tool (others here will protest). The good thing about using tug play for a reward is that the dog must stay engaged with YOU, and not distracting it's attention elsewhere. That somewhat coincides with what Gaiter is saying about the dog "looking to you". Incidentally, I try to discourage others from feeding my dog precisely because it draws her attention away from me. And I don't throw a ball for a reward because it makes the dog leave me. You, as the trainer/owner should try to be the most fun, interesting thing in the dog's world (not always easy). That helps maintain focus. I don't mean that to apply 24/7, the dog should also interact with other family members. But there is no law that says your dog must greet everyone else!
Training is also about developing habits. Eventually, your dog will anticipate what you expect. That's why repetition helps. But you must define exactly what you want and train it that way consistently. If you want a sit with the recall, demand it every time before the reward is given (that's of coarse once he's learned it).

Of coarse there will come the time when the dog would rather do what it wants and not engage with you or obey, like, say, chase that squirrel. This is where the real skill comes in and it's time to wonder how to "correct" the dog. Sorry, there is NO WAY I will discuss that subject on this forum. Applying a proper correction is a science in itself, some would argue. The only thing I will say here about using "corrections" is that your dog first MUST DEFINITIVELY: know exactly what was expected, how he was expected to do it, and chose not to do it. Only then would a TIMELY correction be fair and reasonable. I say timely because a correction applied 5 seconds after the fact is too late.

I lived in So. Florida and competed with several clubs down there. You are lucky to be near a variety of good clubs. And you don't necessarily need formal classes, but that's OK too. Some clubs will allow you to attend sessions on a pay-as-you-go system. I remember doing $5 drill sessions to prepare for trials. And membership to clubs are usually quite affordable, offering discounts to classes if you choose. If you want to PM me I can recommend some clubs and trainers. And just in case you like to read, try this: "The Culture Clash" by Jean Donaldson