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Thread: White mountains

  1. #1
    Registered User McFrancis's Avatar
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    Default White mountains

    Starting plan a hike for the AT in the White Mountains in New Hampshire/Maine. Got a few question: Best time of year to go? What is the best section? Going to be flying in so what is the best way to get to the trail. All and any suggestions are welcomed. Looking to spend 4-5 days on the trail. Tents or shelters? Anything special I need to know?

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    Best time? Anytime you can get there! Fall is nice. Bugs are gone, leafs are changing, cooler temps. Best section is too subjective. Make sure you take a tent, you'll need it. Never depend on shelters. Might be full or too far for you to get to.
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    Registered User DLANOIE's Avatar
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    I would do the Presidential traverse. NOBO or SOBO it doesn't matter. There are huts you can stay at along the way(pricey). Would make a good 4-5 day adventure. I would go in August. There are shuttle services that could take you pretty much anywhere around the Presidentials.

    From Rte. 302 in Glencliff???? NOBO or SOBO is a great section of the A.T. as well. Very beautiful area with waterfalls and lots of ledge hiking.

    So much to chose from in the area you want to hike, it's hard to pinpoint a section not worth doing.
    skinny d

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    Best time to go-late August- no bugs, a little cooler.Do the Presidentials, Crawford notch to Pinkham, Or as an alternative, Franconia Notch to Crawford You can use Pinkham Notch as a base camp-they have shuttles there to take you to various trailheads. For info on the huts and shuttle service, check out www.outdoors.org.

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    You can fly into Manchester, NH airport - probably the nearest significant one. Further but bigger is Boston-Logan. As to best time of year - easiest weather, it seems, is in August, but in September it's still relatively friendly and there's a lot less traffic. You'd probably have an easier time getting a spot in a shelter or hut then. I would just do some research as to shuttles/bus rides from airport to base. I personally want to do Presidentials and Franconia, and Wildcat/Carter Dome, and ... and ...
    The more miles, the merrier!

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  6. #6

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    Fly into Manchester NH, there is a bus line that runs twice daily to AMC Pinkham notch facility. From there you can catch a shuttle to all of the AMC hut trailheads. The timing is reportedly inconvienient for backpackers not staying at the huts but there arent a lot of options except for private shuttle services that are a lot more expensive. There is usually someone who is a guest will do shuttles out of the White Birches campground in Shelburne NH just down the road from the RT2 AT crossing. The bus goes to Gorham which is about a 4 mile hitch to White Birches which has an AT hostel.

    As for the best time of year, the week after labor day week in September is hard to beat, the use drops down substantially once the kids are back in school. The weather is still great and there is the beginnings of leaf color change. It can be a bit cooler but the trade off is cooler weather really helps out the view as during warm weather, the smog forms and obscures a lot. If you shift to the end of September it starts to cool down and usually it starts raining.

    As frequently mentioned, hiking the AT through the whites requires dodging the AMC huts, it can be done but requires planning and possibly dry camps and long detours off the trail. The alternative is staying at the AMC huts which are expensive. A reasonably fit hiker can do the presidential traverse over two long days if you stay at Lake of the Clouds hut. Many people do it as a long day hike but you need to be in shape and used to rocks. Its a 12 to 14 hours hike with lots of big ups and downs. The other major stretch is the Franconia Ridge and that is an easy loop day hike.

    The whites have the views and the crowds but if you go north of RT 2 into the Mahoosucs and over into western maine, you have a lot less people and no problems camping. The AMC shuttles dont go there, but the shuttler at White Birches used to. A run from RT 2 in Shelburne to East B hill road is 4 to 5 days, if not I expect going to south arm road will get you a logn enough stretch . This stretch will get you Mahoosuc notch and Grafton Notch and some relatively wild territory. It also has the longest stretch of the AT with no road crossings (public or private) north of the smokies (Hogan Road to R 26). It is a rougher section of trail with a lots of steep ups and downs. I think you can get a shuttle back to Gorham NH from Andover ME from one of the hostels in the area.

    Unless you go the big buck route and stay at AMC huts, bring a tent, there are a lot of shelters but they get overrun.

  7. #7

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    Here's one way to hike the Presidentials while not staying in the huts. Hiking SOBO from Pinkham, spend the first night at The Perch, a shelter less than one mile off the trail. You will have hiked 9.8 miles from Pinkham plus .9 to The Perch. If this mileage seems low, keep in mind this is the day of most of your elevation gain, namely 3,500' before dropping down a bit for the side trail.

    Second day, hike up Washington, down past Lakes of the Clouds, and on to Mizpah Hut where you can tent at the tenting platforms. Total distance including the side trail from The Perch: 11.2 miles. This give you enough time to linger on Washington and at Lakes if you choose. The stretch from Lakes to Mizpah is fairly easy except the last quarter mile which is a straight-down plummet; don't do it in the dark like a hiking buddy of mine did.

    Third day, hike down to Crawford Notch and either return to Pinkham via the AMC shuttle or continue on if you have the time and your body doesn't rebel.

    Time of year: July is OK, August is better re. bugs, September is good but check the AMC shuttle schedule. Oh BTW re bugs, I experienced awful black flies at The Perch when I did this same hike - of course that was back in '82 but they're probably still around.

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by peakbagger View Post
    Fly into Manchester NH, there is a bus line that runs twice daily to AMC Pinkham notch facility.
    You sure about that? The only bus I know of which stops at Pinkham is the Berlin-Logan run. I'm not even sure you can get to the Manchester airport from Concord by bus. Don't have my schedual handy.

    The bus from Boston (Logan) leaves at 5 pm and arrives in Gorham about 10 pm. So, you loose a whole day getting up here. And a whole day leaving. (I've done that trip often enough) So, I guess thats why you only want to do a 4-5 day trip if you only have a week off.

    Of course, if you did go to Manchester, you could always rent a car, which gives you a lot more options then trying to rely on public transport.

    I would definately go shortly after labor day. Cooler hiking, most of the crowds are gone (expcept maybe on weekends). No colors though, those come late Sept, early Oct but the weather is a lot more iffy and variable by then too. If you happen to hit a bad streach of weather, it can be pretty nasty.
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  9. #9
    AT 4000+, LT, FHT, ALT Blissful's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cookerhiker View Post
    Here's one way to hike the Presidentials while not staying in the huts. Hiking SOBO from Pinkham, spend the first night at The Perch, a shelter less than one mile off the trail. You will have hiked 9.8 miles from Pinkham plus .9 to The Perch. If this mileage seems low, keep in mind this is the day of most of your elevation gain, namely 3,500' before dropping down a bit for the side trail.

    Second day, hike up Washington, down past Lakes of the Clouds, and on to Mizpah Hut where you can tent at the tenting platforms. Total distance including the side trail from The Perch: 11.2 miles. This give you enough time to linger on Washington and at Lakes if you choose. The stretch from Lakes to Mizpah is fairly easy except the last quarter mile which is a straight-down plummet; don't do it in the dark like a hiking buddy of mine did.

    Third day, hike down to Crawford Notch and either return to Pinkham via the AMC shuttle or continue on if you have the time and your body doesn't rebel.

    Time of year: July is OK, August is better re. bugs, September is good but check the AMC shuttle schedule. Oh BTW re bugs, I experienced awful black flies at The Perch when I did this same hike - of course that was back in '82 but they're probably still around.
    When you are not in shape those are grueling days, imo, except the last day. Most thru hikers alone don't do much more than 10 in the Whites... I'd gear days to not much more than 8, imo. The climb up Mt Madison is very tough. The hike to Mt Washington and beyond is no picnic when you are not in shape and lugging gear. It took me all day to go from Mt Madison to Mizpah. The descent to Crawford is quite an ordeal. Just my take SOBO.

    I would do Franconia Ridge and some of the trails around the Pemigawasett (sp?)wilderness, NOBO. Go up from Franconia Notch. Stay at Liberty Springs tentsite. Cross the ridge to Garfield or camp near the pond. Then mosey around the wilderness area (off the AT). You can come out at Lincoln Woods trailhead and get a shuttle back.







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  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by Slo-go'en View Post
    ....I would definately go shortly after labor day. Cooler hiking, most of the crowds are gone (expcept maybe on weekends). No colors though, those come late Sept, early Oct but the weather is a lot more iffy and variable by then too. If you happen to hit a bad streach of weather, it can be pretty nasty.
    Yes, that was my experience. As part of my section hiking, I headed up to NH to hike Pinkham-to-Gorham around the 8-10 of October because I wanted to see the Fall colors. Upon arrival, I noticed that the Presidentials above tree line were already covered in white. Next morning, I'm heading up the Wildcats seeing more patches of snow the further uphill I went. Then late afternoon, the snow began falling steadily.

    Pulled into Carter Notch Hut (self service) in what had become a snowstorm. Temperature dropped quite a bit - a great test for my brand new Slumberjack winter sleeping bag. Next morning, there's 4-5" on the ground and still snowing. Hiked up Carter Dome with very poor visibility and on top with 6-7" on the ground and snow still coming furiously, it was a real winter wonderland scene.

    But I didn't want to get caught in potentially deep snow so after hiking on a few miles, I bailed down a side trail as the snow was still falling.

    And the Fall colors? Aside from the snow and poor visibility, I realized that most of my hiking was in evergreens and the views across to the Presidentials were of more evergreens and above treeline, i.e. no deciduous trees.

    I suppose in the Presidentials one can get some good views of Fall foliage but if you want to hike in it, pick lower elevations.

  11. #11

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    I checked the Schedule and there is a stop in Manchester on the Logan to Berlin (gorham and Pinkham) bus.http://www.concordcoachlines.com/berlin-to-boston.html As the airport is on the outskirts of Manchester, I expect there is a local bus that will have to be taken to get to the bus station which is downtown Manchester. I am not advocating the bus option as it does burn up a lot of time and flexibility. It could easily eat up 1 to 2 days of hiking time. On the other hand Mc Francis stated he wanted a continuous five day hike, a car rental would be less useful as he would still need a shuttle back to his car. If he wants to do a serious of day hike or overnights, a car rental is the way to go. Arguably, if a car rental is considered, and the Mahoosucs are on the agenda, flying into Portland Maine is a shorter drive (90 miles Portland to Gorham NH, 150 miles Manchester to Gorham)

    With regards to fall foliage, the trail runs along a ridgeline that is predominately in the softwoods, but the views are down into valleys and they are full of northern hardwoods with plenty of color. I like the contrast but to each their own. The AT section north of RT2 goes up and down into the valleys and is slightly lower so there are more walks through hardwoods.

    By the way, some of the discussion about the best place to go and when to go is relative, as long as you miss the black fly season prior to early July and miss the potential for early snow in October, you probably cant go wrong. Mosquitoes are more prevalent earlier in the season but generally managable. If you have never been up to the whites, I expect you will be impressed wherever you go . As some of use live up here, we tend to get picky

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    park at lowes store and head up lowes path to the perch[4.2mi] spend the nite and then head north up to mt washington the following morning.u will miss madison and adams doing it this way but will have a challenging stroll up towards mt jefferson. if u get to the perch early you can venture over to the rmc's gray knob,log cabin or the crag camp. they are in the same general area not far from the perch shelter and are worth the visit. whatever you choose have fun and be smart..

  13. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by Blissful View Post
    When you are not in shape those are grueling days, imo, except the last day. Most thru hikers alone don't do much more than 10 in the Whites... I'd gear days to not much more than 8, imo. The climb up Mt Madison is very tough. The hike to Mt Washington and beyond is no picnic when you are not in shape and lugging gear. It took me all day to go from Mt Madison to Mizpah. The descent to Crawford is quite an ordeal. Just my take SOBO.....
    Looking back, I'm surprised I hiked that stretch in one day without extreme exhaustion. Despite being 28 years younger, I'm really in better shape now.

    The toughest part was leaving The Perch the second morning when I hiked up the Washington massif to the summit in total fog and drizzle so dense I couldn't see between cairns - maybe 10 feet visibility. Atop Washington, I barely made out the shapes of the buildings until finally stumbling into the VC & cafeteria. No tourists abounded in those conditions!

    10 minutes after, the clouds parted abruptly, sunshine & blue skies prevailed the rest of the day, and I had a marvelous walk down to Lakes and on to Mizpah. I still remember vividly how awestuck I was with the gorgeous views.

    You just never know what the Whites will bring.

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    The toughest part was leaving The Perch the second morning when I hiked up the Washington massif to the summit in total fog and drizzle so dense I couldn't see between cairns - maybe 10 feet visibility. Atop Washington, I barely made out the shapes of the buildings until finally stumbling into the VC & cafeteria. No tourists abounded in those conditions!

    10 minutes after, the clouds parted abruptly, sunshine & blue skies prevailed the rest of the day, and I had a marvelous walk down to Lakes and on to Mizpah. I still remember vividly how awestuck I was with the gorgeous views.

    You just never know what the Whites will bring.[/QUOTE]

    but wasnt that incredible!!! a summitt built up like that and u dont realize it till it damn near hits ya in the face!!!. i love it like that. the clear days are great but everyone hikes on clear days. rainy days need to be seen, they get lonely without us treking out there...

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    Registered User DLANOIE's Avatar
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    Come to Maine and do the Grafton Notch loop trail. It's a pretty new trail with tent sites along the way. It climbs Old Speck and the Baldplates as well as many smaller peaks. I just did this hike a month ago. It took me three full days. I saw almost nobody aside from some hunters and a few Maine Guides. A very beautiful area, one of my favorite places to go.

    Besides, everybody knows Maine people are the nicest on the Trail...
    skinny d

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    Quote Originally Posted by DLANOIE View Post
    Come to Maine and do the Grafton Notch loop trail. It's a pretty new trail with tent sites along the way. It climbs Old Speck and the Baldplates as well as many smaller peaks. I just did this hike a month ago. It took me three full days. I saw almost nobody aside from some hunters and a few Maine Guides. A very beautiful area, one of my favorite places to go.

    Besides, everybody knows Maine people are the nicest on the Trail...
    Like. . .

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by warraghiyagey View Post
    Like. . .
    Me ? ........
    WALK ON

  18. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by woodsy View Post
    Me ? ........
    Pretty much. . . .

  19. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by woodsy View Post
    Me ? ........
    Especially when you bring the beers. . .

  20. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by nitewalker View Post
    The toughest part was leaving The Perch the second morning when I hiked up the Washington massif to the summit in total fog and drizzle so dense I couldn't see between cairns - maybe 10 feet visibility. Atop Washington, I barely made out the shapes of the buildings until finally stumbling into the VC & cafeteria. No tourists abounded in those conditions!

    10 minutes after, the clouds parted abruptly, sunshine & blue skies prevailed the rest of the day, and I had a marvelous walk down to Lakes and on to Mizpah. I still remember vividly how awestuck I was with the gorgeous views.

    You just never know what the Whites will bring.
    but wasnt that incredible!!! a summitt built up like that and u dont realize it till it damn near hits ya in the face!!!. i love it like that. the clear days are great but everyone hikes on clear days. rainy days need to be seen, they get lonely without us treking out there...[/QUOTE]

    Yeah, you always hear (rightfully so) about how the weather in the Presidentials can change so abruptly from nice & warm & sunny to cold, wet, and dangerous but the opposite change can also occur like it did for me on that '82 hike.

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