Pemi Loop in the fall

[pslates]

I first would like to say a few weeks ago I was in the whites for the first time hiking the Presidential Traverse and loved it. Arrived in very bad weather and one person had died but a day later when I started the weather was perfect for me not hot and not cold and took it easy staying in huts each night to simplify the process and enjoyed those. The area did not seem crowded at all which I was expecting. I had planned it since January to celebrate my 60th birthday which was in May. I did the hike starting at Pinkham Notch where I had stayed the previous night.

I am now interested in coming back and dong the Pemi loop for my fall trip but would prefer to avoid snow but see good leaf colors. Can both of these be done. Have heard from two sources that standard hiking season ends around columbus day the best time for leaves but wonder can I easily get pre snow weather for the hike and good leaf colors in the valleys at the same time. I wonder about last week of September or first week of October.

Fall is my favorite time to hike and I have done winters but would prefer only very little snow at the most and above freezing temps are my favorite though that may be tricky at night. I also wonder if I might have an advantage for parking if I did not arrive on a weekend.

I know weather can be tricky and last month I was delayed a day getting there because of weather and airlines causing me to not get to do a day hike of Franconia Ridge so I would also like to have day hikes planned as a backup.

[Daybreak]

There are always many more people on the weekends (day hiking, parking, camping) but a lot fewer after Labor day. I like starting at the large lot on the Pemi and Kanc. hwy east of Lincoln for easy access, lots of spaces/cars and a ranger station. Your choice of lots and direction can vary based on the weather and exact timing when you arrive. Pick your lot/direction to catch any rain in the trees. The average snowfall on Mt. Washington for all of October is only 6 inches which is 1000' higher than Lafayette on Franconia Ridge. If it does snow it will mostly melt when it hits the trails and be largely caught by trees for most of the loop. It shouldn't be a problem for that time of year. Cold rain or cold wind on the exposed sections may be possible.

The leaf season starts later than 20 years ago. The local tv stations update leaf maps and provide predictions daily if you can vary your visit dates. Check some websites.

btw, The best leaf peak I've caught was in WV (lived in Parkersburg for 2 years) around Blackwater Falls and Cass Scenic RR many years ago.

[peakbagger]

Parking is not really an issue, if Lincoln Woods is full, folks park on the sides of the highway. Just park in the dirt off the pavement. The bigger issue is places to camp. The AMC sites are very busy and fill up early, there are very few options except the AMC sites except for bootleg spots immediately off the trail that are generally pretty full with thruhikers. No camping above treeline and about half the loop is in dense high elevation spruce/fir. There are camping options well off the ridge down in the hardwoods but plan on a mile walk and 1000 feet of elevation loss.

Leaf drop used to occur in the whites by the last week of September, its now getting delayed by week or two. Plenty of color starting to peek out by mid to late September. The trade off nights can get cold up on the ridge. Twenty years ago it was pretty realible that the summits would get a coating of snow by Sept 30th but thats starting to shift into mid October. It usually melts but those are the chances you take. Worse case is you head down Franconia Brook or Twin Brook trails down into the valley and come out at Lincoln Woods.

[Daybreak]

The heat map and graphs can give good relative information about the usage levels. Compare the dates you hiked in May with the end of September to give you an idea of actual numbers of people. It gives graphs by date for each AT shelter. Garfield Ridge and Liberty Springs are key points.

https://www.wherearethehikers.com/about/

[pslates]

Interesting that you mention WV because that is where I have lived.

I did the Presidentials over four days and wonder about the same for the Pemi because of similar terrain and less daylight.

[peakbagger]

Lincon Woods to Liberty Spring Campsite Ist day. Libery Spring to Garfield Shelter (or Pond) 2nd day, Garfield to Guyot Shelter (day 3) Guyot back to Lincoln Woods day 4

[pslates]

I mainly read of hiking the Pemi loop in 2 to 3 days. Like other nearby areas should I plan for 1 mile per hour here and if so this is why I think of doing this over 4 days for the 1st week of October with the about 11 3/4 hours of daylight. When I did the Presidentials I recorded myself and on average had 1 mph but on my third day hiking from Clouds hut to Mizpah got to the hut around noon and debated continuing into the valley. The main reason I did not is I had already paid for the hut and did enjoy myself in their library and previous huts. The next day arrived at Highland Center around 1 and had to kill time to be admitted to the Bunkhouse. Since the terrain and area was new to me I had to allow plenty of time but over all I was fine and not tired out at the end. I was surprised how going up peaks I would pass people I knew were much younger than I and people similar age to me not arriving at the huts until after dinner.

I will be there for a week so I also wonder about day trips such as possibly Mt Washington or any recommendations for something not in the presidentials would be welcome

[peakbagger]

If you have a car, the Baldface Circle trail over on the Maine side of the WMNF gets you in some new territory. As the name implies it is a circle with a lot of above treeline stretches and a fun stretch of open ledges. Its a day hike but a long drive due to its location. Mt Cabot also has a long dayhike loop. The actual summit has no views but the Horn (a summit on the loop has a fine north country view). Its had great view of the Mahoosucs and the mountains of the AT in Western Maine. The usual loop is Bunnel Notch trail from the York Pond fish Hatchery to the Kilknenny Ridge Trail and Unknown Pond trail back to the fish hatchery road. A very busy but unusual Mountain is Mt Chocurua, its a small mountain that thinks its big with a large open summit ridge. All sorts of trails up and down it. Its quite busy in the fall. Just get a real early start and you miss most of the them.

Some folks run the Pemi loop in under 8 hours. Many hikers underestimate it and end up having to bail and do a long hitch to get back to their car. That is why I recommend hikers on the loop be aware of Franconia Brook Trail and Twin Brook trail as they can be a great bail out route through interesting country. A large portion of Franconia Brook trail is an old logging railroad bed so its easy walking.


If you have some cash burning a hole in your pocket, the AMC has two huts on the loop, not cheap and reservations definitely required.

The average hiker without experience in the whites would be hard pressed to do the loop 2 days as there is lot of elevation change on the ridge. Three days will be three long days with as much elevation change as the Presidental Ridge. Logistically its difficult due to very limited camping options. Generally, Garfield Shelter is regarded as the "half way" point in terms of effort.

[pslates]

I am wondering if I should do the Pemi in mid to late September to most likely have better temps than even first week of October to concentrate on good weather for the mountains and not possibly great leaf colors in the valleys. I was reminded everything seems to close the 2nd week of October and some huts in September.

I know I had been advised not to come until late June and when I arrived the valley was having a fall like storm.