Starting April 29, I did a 4-night 5-day Hermit loop trek in the Grand Canyon. I started with a day exploring the rim, including about 8 miles on the Rim Trail and a 1/2 mile off trail trek to the rarely seen Zuni Point overlook. Prehike meals of note were the Navajo Tacos at Cameron Trading Post and lunch at El Tovar (reservations required).
Trek itinerary was S Kaibab to Bright Angel Campground, then Bright Angel Trail to Indian Gardens Campground, then Tonto Trail to Monument Creek Campground, then Tonto Trail to Hermit Creek Campground, then Hermit Trail to Hermit's Rest. That adds up to about 46 miles and 10,000 feet elevation gain and 10,000 feet loss.
I submitted a permit request in late Nov for the Dec 2 lottery for an April hike. I lucked out, having mine picked on the first day. To prepare i lost 24 pounds and walked 30 min on the treadmill every night. I had zero physical problems (blisters, joints, muscles, etc) which suprised me. At 63 YO i had never done a hike of this magnitude and had not been backpacking for a few years. Pack weight was about 15 lbs, not including food, water, and camera (Fujifilm XE3 /18-55 mm zoom). Weather was high sunny, high in the 90s. Heat was not really an issue, but wind was ferocious on a few days.
Day 1 gave amazing views on the S Kaibab Trail. There are new composting toilets at Cedar Ridge and Tip Off, which also also has a new rest shelter (which is amazing -had lunch there). After setting up camp i had a lemonade and iced tea at the Phantom Ranch Canteen. I then went down to boaters beach to rinse my socks, soak my feet, and lubricate them with a hand salve. I did this everyday. This plus my Brooks Cascadia trail runners gave me no foot problems. I went back to Phantom Ranch for the stew dinner (pre paid reservations required).
I started the next morning with the Phantom Rach breakfast (the PR meals were a nice treat). Before heading up to IG, i hiked the N Kaibab trail up to the Phantom Creek junction to see some of The Box. I then hiked up to IG. This was a short day (camp set up by lunch) so for an afternoon excursion i hiked to Plateau Point, with a mile of off trail excursion along the rim of the inner gorge down river. The views from the Tonto are amazing - 360 degree views unlike thev180 degree views from the rim overlooks.
The next day was a 10 mile trek west on the Tonto. Hot with no shade or water, but really not bad as it is mostly level. The worst part was going through Monument Canyon. The trail is marked with cairns, but in several places it was hard to follow. Just down stream from the campground the creek goes through a narrow slot canyoun of rose granite and other ancient metamorphic rocks. Very cool. Slaching in the water, sliding down thevslot is a great way to spendca hot afternoon.
The next day was the easiest - just a few mile to Hermit Creek. This camp is amazing. My sitevwas directlyvabove a swimming hole with waterfall. Due to the short hike i had most of the day to explore, so I followed the creek down to the river and Hermit rapids. Hermit canyon has some of the most interesting rocks i saw. There i ate lunch and watched a raft run the rapids. Back at camp, i went swimming and rested up for the big climb out the next day.
I got up before sunrise to get an early start on the 8 mile 3600 ft climb on the Hermit Trail. This is a good way to hike out since the trail follows the west side of a ridge so you are in the shade all day. There are a few rock fall that have not been cleared so a bit of scrambling is required. This is not maintained like the corridor trails. But the great thing about the Hermit loop is you can enjoy the seclusion of being off the corridor. There is wayer and a rest house at Santa Maria Spring. Its good to rest as the last climb from there is brutal. I had a good chat with a volunteer who was staffing the rest house and a park ranger and biologist i ran into on the way out.
On my last day i met the GM of the Xanterra concessions at the park. We talked for a while about the staffing shortages they still struggle with. Then on the way to the airport, i can recommend MartAnnes Burritos for breakfast in Flagstaff.
Let me know if you have questions or need info on hiking the Grand Canyon.
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