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  1. #1

    Default Educate Me on CDT Please

    Here I go again on my own!
    After a lot of consideration I have decided to hike the CDT next.
    I just got back from Colorado and that just solidified my choice.
    The point of this thread is to get general knowledge of the CDT and its drastic contrast to the AT.
    My entire hiking world and experience has revolved around the east coast, so this is a whole new world to me.

    Here is what I know so far:
    • Water will be a new game. Not as frequent, not great quality, get it when you see it, carry more than AT expectations
    • Resupply logistics are further off trail, and less frequent?
    • There are alternate routes/ fire closures. I am strict on walking every mile of a trail when I hike it, but I also understand that fire issues could result in having to skip miles. I would assume that if there is a fire issue, as a section hiker I would be better off to reschedule the trip altogether rather then try to jump around it due to the smoke?
    • Zip off pants, long sleeve shirt, sunbrella, sunglasses, hat, sunscreen, Chapstick....all a MUST


    Things that immediately come to mind that I don't know:
    • Rain...Bring rain gear? Tarp + mesh sufficient?
    • Best Month to hike in New Mexico?
    • Mileage expectations (My AT average from GA-ME was 15 miles per day however I pulled countless 20's so I know my 15 is skewed by half days)
    • Trail Resources....Hostels, shuttles, trail angels...How does it size up compared to the AT? Don't care about trail magic, just resources.
    • Best part of the CDT?
    • Worst part of the CDT?


    Current CDT Miles Complete: 0.1 LOL
    Last edited by Gambit McCrae; 09-08-2021 at 11:33.
    Trail Miles: 4,927.6
    AT Map 1: Complete 2013-2021
    Sheltowee Trace: Complete 2020-2023
    Pinhoti Trail: Complete 2023-2024
    Foothills Trail: 0.0
    AT Map 2: 279.4
    BMT: 52.7
    CDT: 85.4

  2. #2

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    I've NOT done any on the CDT, but looking at photo's of folks on it, get some of those "Sun Gloves". They are very lightweight and cover the backs of your hands. Palms are open as are fingers so using poles is no issue.
    Your comment about walking every mile. There are alternative routes which are all "every mile". Several places you have a trail where it goes out of the way (longer) but has better views, or a historical place, or more water. Versus the other approved route, which is 15 miles shorter, only one view, maybe 5 miles on a FS (dirt) road, and limited water but you don't have to carry as much because it is 15 miles shorter. I believe there are a few places where the official trail branches (So a choice) and then one or both of those branches, also branches. Eventually they all meet up again.
    Good plan on the smoke and fires and such. Reading many trail journals and people are taking time (days) to skip past smoke area, high snow areas and such.
    For a couple of bucks, get a weird haircut and waste your life away Bryan Adams....
    Hammock hangs are where you go into the woods to meet men you've only known on the internet so you can sit around a campfire to swap sewing tips and recipes. - sargevining on HF

  3. #3

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    I have no direct knowledge of the CDT, but here is a is a link to a free planning guide put out by the Continental Divide Trail Coalition. Hope it helps.

    https://continentaldividetrail.org/p...lanning-guide/

    Here is a link to Walking With Wired’s CDT journal, with advice for future hikers. She is a UL hiker, and hiked the trail in 2013. She is a triple crown hiker, and has hiked numerous other trails in the US, and around the world.

    https://www.walkingwithwired.com/cdt-2013

  4. #4

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    There is an enormous amount of freedom on the CDT. You don't even have to follow a specific route. There are many ways to get from Canada to Mexico. With the freedom comes a fair amount of risk. You better be experienced and equipped, because you are on your own and will rarely see other people. I've done a piece of it in northern Montana (Waterton to Lincoln, MT), worked as a geologist in SW Montana, and did my PhD on the CD near Avon, MT. Also lived in CO for ten years, and spent two summers at South Pass, Wyo. This is lonely, windy country, but quite beautiful.

  5. #5
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    The only parts of the CDT that I’ve hiked are those concurrent with the Colorado Trail. The Collegiate West is absolutely spectacular. I hope to someday hike more of the CDT.

  6. #6
    Registered User Venchka's Avatar
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    Bits and pieces I’ve picked up day dreaming about the CDT.
    You can book a shuttle and water in several caches between the border and Siver City, NM for a fee.

  7. #7
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    I hiked MT and WY south to Steamboat Sprgs CO as three LASH's over three summers '07 - '09 so some of my info is dated. I gather you plan to section hike as you did the AT. If so be aware that timing is hard to preplan and bailing early is difficult in some places. I would expect normal phones to be unreliable.

    Looking at your list but including random thought

    The official trail as of a few years ago was to start at one border and end at the other. There is an "official" map and there are a lot of official trails. However that same organization accepts all routes as official hikes. Most of the trail is open to horses and bikes. Older sections go through parks and Wilderness areas that don't allow bikes but newer (last 40 yrs) allow them and as such avoid some more scenic routes. Most thru hikers skip sections (loops) and take alternative routes where they can take shortcuts (Henry's Lake, Butte, long day hike in RMNP, San Juans). Likewise there were 'official' routes that ran cross country parallel to empty dirt roads 100-200 yards away. These are different hikes with different footwear issues. Depending on the time of year, snow and high water force or encourage one to take alternative routes particularly the San Juans in CO and parts of Glacier NP but also the Winds and the area south of Glacier. Fires from previous years as well as the current year may also limit your hike especially later in the year. Fires are rarely put out. Early in the year the FS, Glacier and Yellowstone work with hikers to enable thru hikes and alternatives where possible and post info in many back areas as closures occur. Later in the year they close whole NFs. There are alternative starts that have different issues. In the south water availability, remoteness, hiker numbers, shuttle availability, map reading skills, river water levels and scenic considerations will help determine which of three routes to take. FYI, water is much more available than it used to be. Spring of course has the best supply. Current info is usually available for the key sections.

    As a LASHer I was not under a time constraint. Henry's Lake route is great(saw nobody)as are the San Juans(popular once the snow melts}. The Butte route is mixed with a lot of mining areas, some heavy ATV use, some beautiful high meadows, old mining camps, no other hikers and some newer sections. Part of it was guess work for me. The route includes two 20 mile dirt roads crossing a valley. The alternative is much shorter but included about 30 miles of highway. 90-95% of thru skip Butte and Henry's lake and sadly the same percent skip the San Juans due to snow.

    Each section is very different and changes during different times of the year. Again, snow and water are issues but so are mosquitos and campsite availability in Y and G. FYI in late June I no real problems getting walk up permits or changing them. Risk in route finding and escape or bail routes are also issues. Bring a wide area map.

    Resupply was not a problem with preplanning. Seems like 100 mile segments were the norm. Longer if you wanted to skip a hitch or mailed resupply. In some cases you may take an alternative route for better resupply. Could get a taxi to South Pass city and Glacier. Took a bus to Lima from the south and from Lima back north to an airport (had to call for special pickup) but I think a shuttle may be arranged. Also took the train across the southern part of Glacier. Hitched to Steamboat Spgs. Shuttle available there and also from Denver.

    There are a lot of dirt roads but they are still scenic. These are the wide open spaces of the west with great mountain views interspersed with arid areas, river cliffs, high meadows, wild horses, antelope, moose filled creeks but also ATVs and motorcycles were they shouldn't be.

    Please don't join the people who stare at their tiny map on the GPS or on the phone blindly following them especially those who can't use them. These are nice things but you need to have map skills and develop comfort being off trail or somewhat discombobulated. Be prepared and supplied to backtrack, go around, or even head south(north) knowing you will get somewhere eventually. Others disagree but the tiniest compass has always been all I need. It can be hard to use if you don't have a larger map to figure bearings to distant or even nearby peaks. Most trails in the north are not marked, some cross country routes have great cairns others have cairns going every direction.

    The CDT route actually goes around the winds. Plan on taking the higher route even in snow. If you can swing it, a route over texas pass is awesome as is the Cirque of the Towers. Ice axe needed in June maybe later but not a steep route. The route in drainage south of Cirques drainage is dangerous until the snow melts but ever so wild. The Cirque will have crowds as will the CDT (low trail) as soon as the snow melts. Alternatives the northern winds can be good cross country work with med-low risk. The older maps (Ley maps) have great notes especially on scenic routes and water. This may have all transferred to Guts maps,idk.

    It rarely rains in the winds. It rains a lot in CO. It cools off at night. In the north light raingear is fine that can double as an extra layer. Grizzlies may occur from Canada south to Lincoln.

    Southern New Mexico might be best to hike in Spring due to water. Don't know the month. Be aware that the Gila river may be unpassable for a month. But sobos hike it every year. It has some elevation in the south so heat isn't terrible but you know avoid july aug. Be out of the mountains by rifle season (late sept?). Water caches(from others) is highly variable depending on time of year and thru hiker crowds. Have options. One route is on a well traveled road.

    Gloves are good for sun protection. You may not use them but something lightweight is good if your burned or start to get red. Same for suntan lotion. Ears are also particularly vulnerable. Mosquito repellent is a must until fall in the mountains.

    I averaged 15.5 mpd on my first AT including nearos but not zeros(I was 39). Less before Smokies. up to 25 in the middle states. I planned 20 mpd on the PCT and CDT. I bought and/or mailed food occasionally. You can adjust based on terrain. If you're going to hike road you may increase miles. Some gravel roads and cross country in open areas are what killed my feet. Plan less in Glacier due to many issues including reservations. Carry food in general however for extra day as resupply between scheduled places in almost impossible and certainly a pain. Trail angels are those people who give you hitch and never have before or randomly stop and offer water, soda, or beer.

    Worst part. The nasty undrinkable water south of Rawlins when my feet were extremely unhappy. North of Steamboat to Wy border, I hated the views of the great wilderness areas to the east that I wasn't in. Instead it was a wide cattle/ sheep trail that had lots of atvs. Paved roads(2), gravel roads(2)Getting there and getting back. Best part Glacier through the Bob especially the red mountain early season alternative - bear, sheep, goats and everywhere else(avoids border crossing/easier shuttle. You might even run into someone you know (shout out to Hawk and Zaz). I love the Winds but really the high country. The CDT avoids all the great parts. Do at least an overnight to ?? and camp at the pass with a great glacier view off of the high trail. Likewise at least hike into and out of the Cirque (two high passes to add to your hike). Loved some of the dirt roads, high quiet country with unexpected small pleasures.

    I used an original tarptent with no floor but carried an5 x 8 tarp as a floor. I would have preferred a zip off floor. The tarp doubled a few times as mid day break shade and shelter from short downpours. In mosquito season omg you need a place to hide. They are relentless all night long and when you stop. I am not an ultralight hiker.

  8. #8

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    Check to see if Yogi's CDT Handbook is still available. My copy is from 2012, so is a bit dated but most of the info is likely still current. Towns don't move

    The worst part from what I hear is southern Wyoming. High desert - no water, no trees, wicked hot, lots of wind and blowing dust.
    Follow slogoen on Instagram.

  9. #9
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    Not an AT hiker... most of my hikes are in Great Smoky Mountains National Park.
    Never hiked any part of the CDT, but I did hike the JMT.
    So the one thing I might be able to add to this discussion is what I eventually worked out as sun protection for my JMT thru.

    1. Unless you want to put sunscreen on your face everyday, you need a wide brimmed hat to protect your face and ears.
    2. You also need a Buff to protect your neck. Yes the wide brimmed hat will mostly cover your neck. But I wound up with a sun burned neck climbing "The Golden Stair Case". It's an hours long climb in full sun exposure with the sun at your back. There's so many steps, you're constantly having to look down... enough that the sun got under the brim of my hat and burned my neck. Next day, a passing hiker showed how I should wear my Buff like a neckless to protect my burned neck from further sun exposure. (Originally just brought the Buff incase I needed something warm to cover my face in cold windy conditions)
    3. Unless you want to put sunscreen on your arms and back of your hand everyday, you need a long sleeve shirt (I used a Bug-a-way long sleeve shirt to pull double duty) and the gloves everyone mentions to protect your hands.

    By the halfway point on the JMT, I finally had my sun protection dialed in (wearing shorts and t-shirt as weather was too warm and I got too sweaty to wear a long sleeve shirt).
    I would wear my wide brimmed had and the Buff all day long to protect my face, ears, and neck without any sun screen.
    I would hike in the morning with no sun screen until some time after 9am. I would then put a layer of sunscreen on the outside of my arms, the back of my hands, and the parts of my legs that seemed exposed to the sun.
    After a boots-off break at lunch, I would reapply sun screen as listed above.
    After about 4pm, sun is getting low enough a third coat of sun screen isn't needed.
    In camp, I would use my stove to warm a small amount of water to a comfortable temperature (doesn't take much). I would use a small camp towel, camp suds, and the comfortable water to wash the parts of my body I had used sunscreen (didn't want those oils in my tent or sleeping bag). Include under the arms and groin and you avoid smelling like an AT thru hiker that hasn't touched soap in a week.

  10. #10
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    I hiked the CDT in 2009, so a lot has probably changed, but I can answer some of these and let you know what worked for me. I'm older now, so my memory isn't what it used to be. :-)

    As I recall, water was really only an issue for me in southern New Mexico and parts of Wyoming, like the Great Divide Basin. There are enough resources (Guides, Guthook, etc.) to plan better now.
    I hiked NM in April. The weather was perfect.
    Resupplying is further, but I had an easier time hitching than some of the other trails. People always wanted to help.
    I also try to stick with the trail, but the CDT is a different beast. I think my map pack was 5 pounds back then! There were a lot of alternates, some that should not be missed. As far as fires, it really depends on the fire. Some are easy to get around in a few miles and some in 100. I've always assumed a continuous path and taken any obstacles like that as they come.
    On the entire trail I wore shorts and used my rain pants if I needed some warmth, long sleeve shirt, umbrella in NM, sunscreen, sun hat, chapstick and wind jacket. I wish I had taken pants for NM because there was a good bit of cross-country hiking and brush back then, but I did not need them after NM.

    I carried rain pants and a rain jacket. There were big temp swings so the wind jacket was my extra layer when needed.
    I think a tarp and mesh are fine, but be prepared for some pretty windy conditions.
    I hike about 15-20 on the AT depending on the section, and on the CDT I was comfortably hiking around 25/day once in shape. There was a LOT of dirt road walking on the CDT when I hiked it so I even had a few 30+ days (only a few).
    I don't know if I ever ran into a Trail Angel, mostly just a lot of helpful ranchers and hunters, but things have probably changed. I rarely used shuttles but just hitched and never really had an issue. There is a FB group for the CDT Class each year, and I do see hikers asking for rides.
    There are hostels in many of the larger towns, especially in CO.

    My favorite sections of the CDT.
    New Mexico - Enjoyed the Gila River section, and the sections between Cuba and Chama.
    Colorado - all of it but especially the San Juans in southern Colorado.
    Wyoming - I'm one of the weirdos that loved the Great Divide Basin, and the Wind River Range was fantastic (a couple of good alternates up there and try to see the Tetons)
    Idaho - I may have blinked and missed it :-)
    Montana - The whole state. Glacier National Park is my favorite National Park.

    There were no real negatives. I enjoy desert hiking but southern NM was kind of a hassle because of the gross cattle trough water. Make sure you take something to prefilter your water - LOTS of floaties.

    There are so many resources now. Check out https://pmags.com. He has a good "Quick and Dirty CDT Guide." It's a good place to start. Someone else also mentioned the CDT site, another good resource.

    Enjoy your hikes!!

  11. #11
    Garlic
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    My CDT hike was in 2007, even farther in the past and a different era. Smart phones existed, but not on the trail. I didn't even carry a cell phone. There was a great resource for maps, Jonathan Ley, who published the "CDT ROM," a take-off on CD/ROM, for those who don't remember CDs. Prior to that, collecting maps was a months-long process. There was even a route named for him, as in "I took the official route/the Wolf route/the Ley route." (Jim Wolf was another great resource for a route, but the maps weren't really in enough detail for hiking. They were pocket-sized guidebooks with good directions NOBO and SOBO. Jim Wolf has since retired and turned over his stuff to the CDTC, I hear.) Printing the Ley maps took days and lots of ink but they sure were worth it. That CD was state-of-the art and unique back then.

    A quick check shows Ley maps are still a thing and are still free, maybe dated with 2016 as a last version, on Avenzamaps.com. Thanks again, Jonathan.

    Ditto Mags' guide.

    I don't know anyone who stuck to the official route. Most took a combination of the above and often made their own. That was the attraction--each hike was unique.

    I also hiked NM in late April in near-perfect weather. I remember a Trail Angel in Pie Town. There was a resident in Benchmark, MT, and a lodge at Togwotee Pass WY that helped with resupply boxes. Generally helpful friendly people all along the way as others have noted. The most memorable was an impromptu welcome celebration along the side of the road on tribal land in NM. That may have been my favorite moment, but overall hiking favorites were the South San Juan and Weminuche Wildernesses and Cirque of the Towers in the Winds, as noted above.

    I'd hiked the PCT a few years earlier with an 18 mpd average. I was able to up that to 20+ mpd on the CDT with more experience and fewer resupply problems (I switched to stoveless for the CDT with a generally lighter pack). I hiked the AT a year later in 106 days, for a 20 mpd average--I was able to apply my CDT hiking style to the AT with good results. The AT seemed pretty easy to me at the time, more fun and social than the Western trails.

    Post-PCT, the water situation didn't seem extreme, but way less organized with zero caches and yes, plenty of gross cattle tanks. Ley's maps documented water status fairly well with notes. A couple of times I found electric well pumps at empty cattle tanks, and with a background in industrial controls I was able to turn them on temporarily for fresh well water. There were plenty of wind-driven pumps and I was lucky to find a few pumping fresh water in good wind. Much of my hike in NM was following a line between cattle tank wells.

    I hiked in long trousers the whole way (sun, insect, and veg protection--lots of bushwhacking) and carried minimal rain gear (homemade silnylon anorak and trousers, 7 oz total). My Tarptent Contrail provided perfect shelter.

    A serious respect for maps and route finding was critical at the time, when GPSs weren't even common. I suspect it can be the same now, especially if there's ever a battery issue.
    "Throw a loaf of bread and a pound of tea in an old sack and jump over the back fence." John Muir on expedition planning

  12. #12
    Registered User Venchka's Avatar
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    “You can’t get there from here.”
    Obviously this old saying isn’t exactly true. However, some sections aren’t exactly easy to get to or from.
    Chama, NM is a nice small town. I have stayed at the Rio Chama RV Park on the north side of town several times. They allow TENTS! Not very common these days. The Lowe’s Supermarket is at the south edge of town.
    From the RV park the highway leaving Chama to the north crosses the CDT a few miles from town. From that intersection, the CDT goes right to Mexico and left to Colorado.
    The catch is getting to Chama via public transportation. I always get there in my car. There may be private bus service from Santa Fe or Albuquerque, the nearest airports that I know of.
    The Rome to Rio app might help with planning sections.
    Getting to/from either terminus might be interesting too. You might want to get those out of way early and then fill in the middle.
    I found several YouTube videos with good advice on getting to and from various airports to remote sections of the CDT.
    Steamboat Springs, CO and West Yellowstone, MT are two airports that can get you close to the trail. Airport Shuttles from the Denver airport to the Dillon area and buses from Dillon to Leadville should be relatively easy.
    Have fun!
    Wayne

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    Dear Gambit: Good advice here I have read. I have hiked CDT NM and part of MT CDT and into CO Pagosa Springs on CDT from NM. It's not the AT where there is continuous social interaction. Be prepared for being alone although over the years the hiking crowd has become more populated. the only thing I would add is view Youtube Vids, pick up books on CDT and try to see if you could obtain a Spot device or something similar (Garmin InReach, etc.). Oh one thing I observed-the hikers how always had to bail or got in "trouble" were lightweight hikers who were not prepared for the cold. These hikers sought out motels much more frequently and I always wondered why they never "fixed" their problem. I guess the pay-off for them was the lighter pack. Have fun and be safe.

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    Dear Gambit: I forgot to mention that there are of course pros and cons to either going NB or SB. I tired both and found NB more to my liking. So when I head out and I regularly do section hikes on NM on CDT from NM/Mex border I always start right after Easter. Seems a good time, April. Take care.

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    Dear Gambit: No doubt you have already done your CDT hike but here is the last thing that came to me that has not been said and may prove valuable to you. I live not far from Crazy Cook and it's West TX. IT is very dry here but I was unprepared the last time I came as I was hiking all of NM on CDT and to Pagosa Springs. The dry climate was quite worse than West TX. It affected my hands. My hands all of the sudden were very tender and began to break down with all kinds of cuts and abrasions. I quickly picked up a pair of work gloves in Lordsburg. Also used hand cream for dry skin. This was a battle and the damage was so bad I wore them into CO. OK. Have a great time and I hope you do the CDT.

  16. #16
    Registered User Venchka's Avatar
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    Update:
    I recently discovered that there is bus service from Santa Fe to Chama, New Mexico. It might require a taxi or UBER from the Santa Fe airport to the bus terminal.
    No telling what New Mexico and Southwest Colorado will be like if/when the fires are put out.
    A few years ago the San Juan mountains were snowed in later than usual. Through hikers were skipping Colorado all together.
    Very good,relatively recent,You Tube videos at Seeking Lost.com.
    Good luck!
    PS: Take a week off and visit the Tetons. Jackson Hole Airport makes it possible during a section change. Make that two weeks. A week at the end of a section and another week when you return for the next section.

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