Washing A Down Sleeping Bag in a Machine

[spfleisig]

Western Mountaineering says to not wash their sleeping bags in a top loading machine or a machine with an agitator. They say you can use a front loader. Does anyone know why one can't use a top loader? I have a top loader that doesn't have an agitator. How is a top loader without an agitator different than a front loader without an agitator? And yes I have emailed the company this question but haven't heard back.

Thanks

[Linesman]

I think a sleeping bag could wrap around around the agitator and tear the delicate fabric. If your machine has nothing to get tangled around then you should be fine.

[4eyedbuzzard]

Top loader with no agitator should be fine. Delicate settings. The potential for damage is caused by the agitator in older style top loaders turning opposite the direction the tub turns, and also having the bag get caught, wrapped, and stretched on the agitator during spin cycle, leading to pulling/twisting the bag around the agitator, and possibly tearing seams and internal baffles and such. Obviously follow WM's instructions at https://www.westernmountaineering.co...uct-tips-care/ especially on rolling to remove water/air and then lifting in once piece from the washer.

Things I've discovered:
Rinse it multiple times after the wash cycle. Residual detergent/soap is the enemy of down.

Provided the bag to be washed is not damp/wet or stored in high humidity environment, weigh the bag in the stuff sack before washing. Then, when you think it's finally dry after several hours in the dryer (with a few tennis balls to break up clumps), check that there are no damp clumps left and stuff it and weigh it again. Once dry, the bag should (obviously?) weigh pretty close to the pre-wash weight (technically, minus the removed dirt/oils weight which isn't very much). As long as there are no clumps left and it's within a few ounces, then hang it and air dry it for a day or more - fluffing it by hand several times. If it's dry but still needs a bit more fluff, run it for 10-20 minutes in the dryer again on low or air dry - the friction with the dryer will generate static electricity to help the down filaments repel each other.

When drying, check often to make sure the bag shell isn't getting too hot. Even on low setting, dryers that have poor/faulty temperature controls could scorch the shell on a bag. A bag has very low mass compared to the the typical load dryers are designed to dry, so they can heat up quickly even on low. Make sure the dryer temperature controls are working well and the bag is not getting too hot, especially toward the end as once most of the moisture is gone, the bag can get hot quickly. Throwing in a few dry towels to add mass and act as a temperature buffer especially toward the end of the drying process can't hurt.

Observation - there's usually more/denser down filling in the foot end of a bag, and it's often the last part to finally dry.

If you've never washed a high-end bag before, you'll be surprised how much air and water gets trapped inside by the shell fabric (especially once it's wet) and how long it takes to get it out through the tightly woven materials. You'll note WM says put the stuffed bag in the wash water and THEN take it out in the water to minimize the air bubble issue and let the bag interior fill with water rather than air. Be patient and go slowly.

[TwoSpirits]

4eyedbuzzard gave really good advice about drying. I check the dryer *frequently* when drying to be sure the shell isn't getting too hot. I have been surprised at just how hot it can get on its very low heat setting.

I have a top-loader without the center agitator thingy, and have washed my lighter weight WM bags (Sycamore & Everlite) and in it a handful of times without any noticeable problems. As mentioned, be sure to use the Delicate cycle and rinse at least a couple of times. Be careful lifting it out -- they can be surpringly heavy, and this is when you can accidentally rip seams & baffles.

I prefer to use the bathtub for my heavier bag (Antelope) -- I worry that that much wet down weight in even an agitator-less washer will end up damaging itself. It takes a while and isn't the most comfortable on my back & knees, but I worry less about it.

[RangerZ]

I agree with the above. I’ve washed mine in my agitatorless top loader with no problems. Multiple passes in the dryer with tennis balls, checking off clumps.

[Time Zone]

FWIW:

down bag, washed in tub with Zote (grated off shreds from a solid bar). Lukewarm water. Soaked for a bit then "massaged" through with hands.
Rinsed twice. Not sure 2nd rinse was even needed, as Zote rinses out quite well.
carefully removed to laundry basket
carefully placed in top loader with agitator, selected "drain and spin"
remove to dryer, run on low with 3 tennis balls
success! No damage that I could tell. Loft slightly improved (but that's always the case with bag fresh out of dryer).

[Franco]

If you do go ahead using your washing machine, I suggest you run one cycle without any detergent first because most often there is some residue in the tub.
And do make sure you are using soap not detergent. (sold in supermarkets in flakes or bars marked pure soap)

[sethd513]

In all the times I’ve washed my -20 marmot col and all my EE quilts I can’t see how a washing machine washes them effectively. There is just no way. Hands and knees In a tote in the tub. Get the funk out.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Venchka]

I sent my WM Alpinlite Long to Boulder Mountain Repair. It came back like new. I didn’t have to second guess myself if I had done the job right.
https://bouldermtnrepair.com/#services
Good luck!
Wayne