WhiteBlaze Pages 2024
A Complete Appalachian Trail Guidebook.
AVAILABLE NOW. $4 for interactive PDF(smartphone version)
Read more here WhiteBlaze Pages Store

Results 1 to 9 of 9
  1. #1
    Registered User Megapixel's Avatar
    Join Date
    12-16-2009
    Location
    in the woods
    Age
    50
    Posts
    625

    Default Malfunction Help

    My backpacking cooking setup has always been white gas and then more recently alcohol stoves up until my most recent purchase of a canister stove, the BRS-3000. I have tested it a few times and all has been well... until today. I was warming two cups of water for tea in some pretty strong wind and after about 3-4 minutes I heard the flame go out despite the flimsy tin foil wind guard I am using. The water was plenty warm for tea so I preceded to break everything down. After I unscrewed the stove from the canister, fuel was heard leaking from the canister valve. I proceeded with caution and left the canister in a safe location. I came back twenty minutes later and it was still leaking.
    I am wondering what caused this? I am leaning heavily towards the canister malfunctioning, as it seems more likely than the unscrewing of the stove causing it. Any thoughts? I am now wondering if I should've screwed the stove back onto the canister and then removed again to see if it would then stop leaking. The canister was a 220g Coleman from Walmart that had been used for three other cook sessions without incident.

    http://www.postholer.com/ontrail
    2011 H.F.-Duncannon, Katahdin-Rangeley
    2012 Springer-Erwin



  2. #2

    Default

    Ice might have formed in the value area which prevented the valuve from closing all the way. The value area cools when the gas expands into the burner and can freeze out moisture from the air. I would have tried screwing the burner on and off a couple of times so see if that fixed it or not. If not. I'd leave the burner attached.
    Follow slogoen on Instagram.

  3. #3
    Registered User Venchka's Avatar
    Join Date
    02-20-2013
    Location
    Roaring Gap, NC
    Age
    78
    Posts
    8,529

    Default

    Anecdotal online evidence points to the French made Coleman canisters occasionally acting funky.
    I have two of those canisters in my inventory. I’m saving them for use at home if we have a lengthy power outage.
    Primus, MSR & JetBoil brand canisters are also in the inventory for backpacking.
    Wayne

  4. #4
    Registered User 4eyedbuzzard's Avatar
    Join Date
    01-02-2007
    Location
    DFW, TX / Northern NH
    Age
    67
    Posts
    8,143
    Images
    27

    Default

    Like Slo mentioned, could be freeze-up which can occur as the gas expands, or it could just be a malfunction or defect in the valve assembly. Just for educational purposes, here's a pic and description of the cross section of a typical Lindal valve assembly on a stove canister - from https://bushwalkingnsw.org.au/clubsi..._GasStoves.htm
    A sample unused valve assembly (from Lindal) is shown above upside down, and the cross-section is shown to the right. It is effectively the same thing you find on a pressure pack can of paint or fly spray - some of which are (or used to be) pressurised by butane or propane! The basic valve shell A is crimped onto the canister body. The outer black butyl rubber ring B (shown brown here) does the sealing there. The stainless steel spring E just visible inside the central blue polyamide cylinder F pushes a small (often red) polyacetal valve plug D against an inner black neoprene rubber valve seat C (shown pink here) under the metal top. This spring-loaded valve is why the canister is called 'resealable'. Part F is the blue bit in the previous photo. The disk D is pushed down by a pin located inside the threaded part of the stove body when the stove is screwed onto the valve, and this lets the gas out. The position of the pin is shown as a solid blue line. In some cases (eg Coleman Powermax) the blue pin is actually a tube and the gas goes up inside it. In most cases there is a hole in the stove body for the gas near the blue pin. Given the millions and millions of spray cans around the world, this valve would seem pretty reliable in sealing (even if the flow does sometimes get blocked up).
    LindalValveSection2FAQ.jpg

  5. #5

    Default

    There have been a bunch of reports of the newer Coleman canisters being incompatible with certain stoves. I'd grab another brand and test again.

    https://adventuresinstoving.blogspot...s-caution.html

  6. #6
    Registered User Venchka's Avatar
    Join Date
    02-20-2013
    Location
    Roaring Gap, NC
    Age
    78
    Posts
    8,529

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by CalebJ View Post
    There have been a bunch of reports of the newer Coleman canisters being incompatible with certain stoves. I'd grab another brand and test again.

    https://adventuresinstoving.blogspot...s-caution.html
    That’s the online article that caught my attention. I put the Coleman canisters at the back of the line.
    Wayne

  7. #7

    Default

    I figured it was and should have quoted your post in my response.

  8. #8

    Default

    Hum, the OP was using a wind screen. Maybe the value got too hot and the rubber seal melted or deformed enough to prevent a good seal.
    Follow slogoen on Instagram.

  9. #9
    Registered User Venchka's Avatar
    Join Date
    02-20-2013
    Location
    Roaring Gap, NC
    Age
    78
    Posts
    8,529

    Default

    It’s all good. Thank you! I was preoccupied and didn’t go and find the link.
    The good news for me is that I was able to buy 4 medium Primus canisters at Walmart before they switched to Coleman.
    Wayne

++ New Posts ++

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •