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Thread: Stoves

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by nsherry61 View Post
    . . . The Moulder Heat Shunt Rocks!
    Come on folks. Get with the times!!
    Let me put this into perspective a bit. I own both an MSR XGK liquid fuel stove and an MSR WindPro II remote/inverted canister stove, both intended and used for heavy winter alpine use. I quit using both about 4 years ago when I started using a Moulder Heat Shunt with any one of my canister top stoves including MSR Pocket Rocket II, SnowPeak Lite Max, BRS3000T, Jetboil MiniMo, Jetboil Flash.

    The whole discussion about canisters stoves not working in winter is completely outdated at this point.
    I'm not lost. I'm exploring.

  2. #22
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    FWIW, I did a boil test with my alcohol stove one day when it was 5 below zero F. The stove worked fine, but I didn't.

  3. #23
    Registered User Kaptainkriz's Avatar
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    I have two setups, a cold and a warm. The warm one is caldera/starlyte/toaks based. I does what I need to do...boil stuff. For cold (cold enough my water gets hard) it's a BRS and a shunt...hands down the best way to melt my coffee in the AM. Either way, if I get in a bind and need to summon Hephaestus, I know where to find him.
    Plaid is fast! Ticks suck, literally... It’s ok, bologna hoses off…
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  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by nsherry61 View Post
    Let me put this into perspective a bit. I own both an MSR XGK liquid fuel stove and an MSR WindPro II remote/inverted canister stove, both intended and used for heavy winter alpine use. I quit using both about 4 years ago when I started using a Moulder Heat Shunt with any one of my canister top stoves including MSR Pocket Rocket II, SnowPeak Lite Max, BRS3000T, Jetboil MiniMo, Jetboil Flash.

    The whole discussion about canisters stoves not working in winter is completely outdated at this point.
    Given that no major manufacturer is selling moldering strips means that making them is yet something else taking away from the simplisity of the canister... Plus it still takes some knowhokn to get the stove fired up in the cold so the heat can start warming the strips.

    Don't get me wrong ... It's nice to learn about tricks like this and I appreciate you guys sharing... But moldering strips don't sound like something for a beginner (gotta walk before you run).

  5. #25
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    Two diferent types of stoves used in this video, Fancee Feest & liquid feed. Temperatures got down to -40 in Minnesota:






    Last edited by zelph; 12-20-2018 at 23:27.

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by HooKooDooKu View Post
    . . . yet something else taking away from the simplisity of the canister... Plus it still takes some knowhokn to get the stove fired up in the cold so the heat can start warming the strips.
    ... But moldering strips don't sound like something for a beginner (gotta walk before you run).
    The Molder Strips are exceptionally simple and easy, but yes, of course, they add a little complexity, sorta, maybe, but not much.
    Starting a canister stove in the cold (unless it's super cold) is pretty easy. It's getting it to burn hot and keep burning as the canister continues to cool from evaporation that I find to be the challenge. BUT, I don't ever find starting a canister as difficult to do, or to teach others to do, as to prime liquid fuel stoves, or just set up an MSR Whisper Lite. My Moulder Strip system is just a silicone wrist band and a copper plumbing strap from Home Depot that I probably cut to length with either a pair of pliers or a hacksaw, filed the end on to make them smooth and pounded flat with a hammer. NOT rocket science.

    20170123_162648.jpg

    If you look close at this image (January 2017 in the Adirondacks), you will see my Moulder Strip sticking up into the burner area from about the 10 o-clock position on the stove. The red diabetes awareness silicone band that holds the strip in place is obvious around the bottom of the canister. For what it's worth, it was cold enough that my bic lighter wouldn't light but the stove worked fantastically. The wind screen is also a DIY project that worked out super well.
    I'm not lost. I'm exploring.

  7. #27
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    Burning Isopropyl 91 alcohol


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  9. #29
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    The first, and only winter PCT thru hike was done by a couple guys that chose to use an alcohol stove. They can work well.

  10. #30
    Getting out as much as I can..which is never enough. :) Mags's Avatar
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    On the AT? Doesn't matter. Easy resupply for alcohol and canisters. And you aren't doing large food carries. Go with what works for you.
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  11. #31
    Draggin Dragon
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    If your not going to go cold (which can be done) a simple double wall pepsi can alcohol stove with side burner holes and wind screen is enough and probably the lightest.
    Draggin Dragon

  12. #32

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gambit McCrae View Post
    about 2 years ago I converted to alc stove and I will never go back to canister system again
    I once thought I would never go with a canister but recently discovered the BRS 1 oz stove.It's loud and obnoxious but it gets the job done in a hurry in the mornings especially but on a long trip I would think alcohol would have an advantage.

    My next trip is to Mt. Sterling and I intend to go stove less for the first time.That's going to be interesting but cold coffee is something I drink often so why not?

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