15 or 30 Degree Bag for AT in Spring?

[MuddyWaters]

Last of april/first of may is great in ga. You just behind bubble, not crowded, a few lagging thrus. Might need a 30, might need 50, 20 is getting overkill in ga then. Green is working way up mountains, leaf out in progress. Only highest el. Is brown with buds. One of best times to be on southern trail, as long as behind bubble. Days in 70s.

[Venchka]

Another option coming soon,
https://andrewskurka.com/2017/review...perless-mummy/
Wayne


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[LIhikers]

An essential piece of equipment in cold weather is a good sleeping pad too.
Look for one that has an R rating somewhere near 5, or use 2 lesser ones.

[egilbe]

Venchka - Plan on using a Therm-a-Rest Z Lite CCF pad, along with a REI Co-Op Passage 1 Tent. Also, I am a male, so no purple sleeping bags

You are going to lose a lot of warmth to the cold ground. Bring another CCF pad, or get a warmer inflatable pad. As was mentioned, finf one with an R value of 5 or great.

[Venchka]

The Z Lite + a torso length blue foam pad MIGHT be enough.
My Xtherm works at 12 degrees F.


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[KDogg]

It has been implied in a few responses but you will layer your sleep system just like your clothing system. Some pieces will work for both. It's hard to plan for extreme weather because it is hard to plan for extreme weather. There were a couple of nights in April/May that I had all of my clothing on plus a liner plus my bag.

[MtDoraDave]

One thing I haven't seen is the question of whether or not you are a cold sleeper. That makes a big difference in how much sleeping bag you need.

I, for example, am a cold sleeper. After being uncomfortably cold in the GA mountains one November in the upper teens, I bought a zero degree bag. I now have two sleeping bags, and I try to bring the bag that is rated for about 20 degrees colder than the expected low temperatures. To me, the extra weight is worth the peace of mind knowing that I will be warm a few minutes after I crawl inside my sleeping bag.

Also, the temperature ratings on bags vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. Some use the lower limit rating, some use the comfort rating, some use the European Norm, etc.

I just came back from a trip out west, up at 10,000 feet, where the temps got down to about 20 degrees at night. I was toasty inside my 0 degree Marmot down bag, but a girl with us who had just bought a 0 degree quilt from EE had frozen feet each night.

To sum up, there are a lot of things to consider before answering the OP's question... but my personal opinion, the answer would be to go with the warmer bag.

[Time Zone]

I, for example, am a cold sleeper. After being uncomfortably cold in the GA mountains one November in the upper teens, I bought a zero degree bag. I now have two sleeping bags, and I try to bring the bag that is rated for about 20 degrees colder than the expected low temperatures. To me, the extra weight is worth the peace of mind knowing that I will be warm a few minutes after I crawl inside my sleeping bag.

Also, the temperature ratings on bags vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. Some use the lower limit rating, some use the comfort rating, some use the European Norm, etc.

I just came back from a trip out west, up at 10,000 feet, where the temps got down to about 20 degrees at night. I was toasty inside my 0 degree Marmot down bag, but a girl with us who had just bought a 0 degree quilt from EE had frozen feet each night.

To sum up, there are a lot of things to consider before answering the OP's question... but my personal opinion, the answer would be to go with the warmer bag.

Interesting, I am the same way - I use +20F as an adjustment factor to the bag rating to get a lowest comfortable overnight temperature. However, my down bags are old, pre-EN ratings, I think. I have a couple synthetic bags that have a comfort rating that is +9F higher than their "cool" rating - I'm not sure if the comfort rating is the same as an EN rating, but I do suspect their cool rating is basically the same "keep you alive but maybe not warm" rating that my old down bags were probably based upon (the lowest temp they could justify, most likely). In that case, my adjustment factor would be +11F to a bag with a comfort rating (or EN rating), and +20F for the old scale.

Couple other comments - a bag that is too roomy won't be as warm as one that is a more snug fit. Too much dead space to heat with your body. I was just into the "long" range for bags, but by so little that the effect is a cooler bag. Turns out I could have gotten by with a regular (more snug fit, but do-able, and warmer as a result).

Lastly, the story about the girl cold in the EE quilt - second time I've heard of someone feeling cold under one of those, despite having a quilt well within the temp range. The other time was out east, so I thought that maybe ambient humidity compromised the bag's loft, since EE quilts often rely on very high fill power down. But you mentioned being out west, where it's usually lower humidity, and thus I would think a very high fill power down bag or quilt would perform optimally. So that's kind of interesting. Could be just a difference in cold/warm sleepers etc., or what kind of socks she had on her feet (dry? wool?)

Your summary makes sense. You can always vent or throw off a warmer bag to cool off; it's much harder to get extra warmth out of an inadequate bag.

[garlic08]

Buy both bags. (Or better yet, spend the winter looking for better and lighter deals, as mentioned above.) Seven-day weather forecasts are pretty good lately, it seems. Especially in the "shoulder seasons," I would wait until the day before I left to make my decision.

Also spend some time this winter on overnighters verifying that the bag(s) you purchase actually keep(s) you warm in the rated temps. One of the reviews on the REI site for one of those bags wasn't very good. If you spend less than $100 on a 15F bag, be prepared to get your money's worth.

[Hikingjim]

Ok guys and gals,

Looking to do my first short section hike (likely Amicalola Falls to Neels Gap) next year around late March or mid April.

I know it is a crap shoot, but what can I expect weather wise around that time?

I have found a really good clarence (meant to misspell) on an ALPS Mountaineering Red Creek 15 and 30 degree mummy bags.

The price difference between the two is non issue, my real reason for even considering the 30 degree, is it is almost a pound lighter. But then again, I don't want to be cold. 3.07lb vs 2.14lb.

What say the experts?

Your weights are off a bit there. the heavier is 3 lbs, 7 oz, which is about 3.4 lbs. The other was 2 lbs, 14 oz, or close to 3 lbs. So you have about a 9 oz or 0.6 lb difference.

I would go with the heavier bag for late march, unless I was waiting to see the forecast and it looked good.

However, as you get into backpacking more and upgrade your gear, a 3.5 pound synthetic bag will be one of the first thing on the chopping block, due to both weight and bulk. But my old "entry level" gear still gets used. Friends, kids, etc

[taylorshiver]

Great advice everyone. Going to keep looking for something better and lighter.

I am normally a hot sleeper, but the last thing I want to do is be cold in a tent

[cmoulder]

I just came back from a trip out west, up at 10,000 feet, where the temps got down to about 20 degrees at night. I was toasty inside my 0 degree Marmot down bag, but a girl with us who had just bought a 0 degree quilt from EE had frozen feet each night.

Can't draw any conclusions from this without knowing about the total sleep system, to include sleep mat(s), how (or if) the quilt was attached properly to the mat and cinched to prevent drafts, and clothing worn to sleep, what is on the head (cold feet, put on a hat, yada-yada) etc

So often a quilt or bag is blamed when the real culprit might be other deficiencies in the system.

Also, there is absolutely nothing wrong with wearing all clothing to sleep in if one is cold, or draping items over the quilt/bag to supplement insulation. Sometimes the answer is literally right there in front of people and they don't get it.

[taylorshiver]

I will say, the Hammock Gear Econ Quilts have caught my attention, but I am still not sold on them keeping in as much warmth as an equivalent mummy sleeping bag.

The size/weight to cost ratio is nice though!

[Hikingjim]

So often a quilt or bag is blamed when the real culprit might be other deficiencies in the system.
Also, there is absolutely nothing wrong with wearing all clothing to sleep in if one is cold, or draping items over the quilt/bag to supplement insulation. Sometimes the answer is literally right there in front of people and they don't get it.

Agree with this. When I started using quilts I was cold with a 20f quilt in the 20s and even 30s
I particularly reference my Hammock Gear burrow 20 that I've used most, but I borrowed a friend's 20f revelation for about 5 nights as well. The HG burrow down would spread to the sides a bit, draft up, etc. But I've figured out a way to use the cinch cord at the top properly to optimize the down on my core/chest (and a bit of fluffing it up when I get in there!), and I use 1 pad attachment strap that is essential, but I don't like using all 3 attachments.
My hooded 7 oz wool baselayer works perfectly with this as well, combined with a beanie if necessary. Now I'm 100% confident down to 20f, and my down jacket normally just lays at my side or serves as extra core insulation if I feel I need it.

It takes time to figure out how to use it right (at least for me). My old sleeping bags were pretty dummy-proof!

However, I also did have a friend that was cold for years at 20-30f with his 0f sleeping bag as well. Turns out 70% of the down was underneath him and all he had to do was shake it up top to be warm! Whoops.

[garlic08]

...However, I also did have a friend that was cold for years at 20-30f with his 0f sleeping bag as well. Turns out 70% of the down was underneath him and all he had to do was shake it up top to be warm! Whoops.

Yeah, that was me with my first down bag. It did not have side baffles, and didn't come with a manual. It's a nice feature if you know about it.

[MtDoraDave]

Can't draw any conclusions from this without knowing about the total sleep system, to include sleep mat(s), how (or if) the quilt was attached properly to the mat and cinched to prevent drafts, and clothing worn to sleep, what is on the head (cold feet, put on a hat, yada-yada) etc
So often a quilt or bag is blamed when the real culprit might be other deficiencies in the system.
Also, there is absolutely nothing wrong with wearing all clothing to sleep in if one is cold, or draping items over the quilt/bag to supplement insulation. Sometimes the answer is literally right there in front of people and they don't get it.

It was a brand new 0 degree 850 fill, full zipper, EE sleeping bag with a draw cord on the head and toe end.
Sleeping pad was a Prolite Plus, not attached
All clothes were worn inside, two pair of socks, neck gaiter, wool cap.

The problem could be the draw cord on the foot end compressing the down AND the hole left in the middle even when fully cinched, allowing cold air in. The last night, she cinched a pair of wool socks in the hole... but still had cold feet.

[cmoulder]

Prolite plus has an R rating of 3.4. Maybe put a 3/8" CCF on top of that.

Edit: also, for a bag or quilt of that rating it would be better, IMO, to get something with a closed footbox, like the Conundrum, which has a panel section on the end that creates more room and no compression of the down in the foot area.

[Hikingjim]

I will say, the Hammock Gear Econ Quilts have caught my attention, but I am still not sold on them keeping in as much warmth as an equivalent mummy sleeping bag.
The size/weight to cost ratio is nice though!

That's cool. Didn't know they had econ one (basically just duck down instead of goose and a slightly lower fill power)
If you have a good sleeping pad and some head/neck insulation, you'll be find with a 20f (or 10 if you sleep cold) with that quilt