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  1. #21

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    You might find a how-to on YouTube, which is an amazing repair resource.

  2. #22
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    Sallymon,
    With one GE II tube of silicone (I think it is 85g) I would do 2-3 tents like the Notch by following the TT method , as explained (video) on the TT site.
    Yes , often folk put too much silicone because they paint it on thick rather than diluting it (as shown in the video...) and letting the silicone penetrate the seams.
    Silicone drys faster in high humidity , that also means it takes longer to dry on hot dry days.
    I have had tents drying up (to the touch) in less than 6 hours to over a full day , up to almost two days in really hot weather.
    you can sprinkle some talcum powder on it . (not two pounds of it....)

  3. #23

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    I guess I'm confused then as to why it's still sticky and what that means regarding waterproofing. Any suggestions? I used the seam seal kit TT sent. Will it always be sticky? Or is that cause it's too thick and needs A LOT more drying time?

  4. #24
    Registered User Walkintom's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sallymon View Post
    I guess I'm confused then as to why it's still sticky and what that means regarding waterproofing. Any suggestions? I used the seam seal kit TT sent. Will it always be sticky? Or is that cause it's too thick and needs A LOT more drying time?
    It's probably because your humidity is low and you have it inside. Low humidity = slower curing. Inside = low atmosphere exchange = slower curing.

    And you probably put it on too thick as well. Eventually it will cure though.

  5. #25
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    maybe you did put it on a bit thick so in that case yes it will take longer to dry but it will.

    BTW a good reason for not putting it on thick is that it can peel off done that way.
    This is one of my seams to give you an idea of how I do them :
    Seams.jpg

  6. #26

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    Damn TX weather (actually we've been at 90% humidity/85F averages with lots of rain! ). We had one freak day of 70F where I could seam seal it on my apt porch. I did my best (usually we're already in mid 90's at this point in the year). We'll see how it holds. Thanks for your help!

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    I'd expect everything to get misted wet in 100% humidity. To me, that's not a function of a tent being waterproof, since the air itself is ... "water" in that situation.

    You might want to spray the tops of your sleeping bags with some DWR? Just enough so water droplets in the air won't soak in.
    [I]ye shall not pollute the land wherein ye are: ... Defile not therefore the land which ye shall inhabit....[/I]. Numbers 35

    [url]www.MeetUp.com/NashvilleBackpacker[/url]

    .

  8. #28

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    If it rains you're going to get wet. If you don't want to get wet, stay home.

  9. #29
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    To me the idea was to suggest ways to minimise the chance of getting wet.
    Eliminating condensation isn't possible but managing the situation is.

  10. #30
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    Misting is an unfortunate trade off for single wall tents. In addition to seam sealing, I have applied spray silicone in/out and my tents are 100% waterproof. The great news for sil nylon is that it will completely dry in 10-15 minutes during a break. I usea polycro ground cloth (1.7 oz.) that takes cares of seepage and worse, mud.


  11. #31

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    nothing is 100% waterproof while being breathable (which you need). but try some nikwax spray on your tent which sheds water

  12. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Patrickjd9 View Post
    Sallymon, definitely not duct tape. Seam sealing takes more sealer than you'd think. You do need to fully wet the strip of doubled fabric on the fly and the floor (usually inside, sometimes inside and out) that has the sewing you can see and feel. Avoid getting seam sealer on areas away from the doubled sewn strips.

    Can you please explain how spraying inside helped with condensation? As far as I understand, spraying with silicone will make the fabric less breathable, so wouldn't that mean more condensation? Or do you mean the silicone just helped the condensation roll off better?

    On a somewhat related note, has anyone tried using the "second wall" (the clip in liner) on their Tarptent? I have the Rainbow and major condensation issues, so I've been considering getting it - the extra 4 oz might be worth it.

  13. #33
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    "On a somewhat related note, has anyone tried using the "second wall" (the clip in liner) on their Tarptent? I have the Rainbow and major condensation issues, so I've been considering getting it - the extra 4 oz might be worth it."
    The liner will not reduce condensation it will help you not to brush against a wet fly.
    I first installed one in my Moment (old version) then after a few trips I decided that I just prefered wiping the wall down if needed so never bothered after that.
    The curtain does help a bit with warmth and to reduce heat from the sun if by any chance you have an afternoon nap.
    BTW, I posted this many times.
    If, when you get up in the morning, after a non rainy night , the grass is wet, the tent fly (over and under) will be wet irrespective if it is a single or double wall tent.
    Any brand, any fabric.


  14. #34
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    BTW, for the ones that like to wake up to a wet tent, this is the classic spot where you have a very good chance to get your wish :
    riverside camping.jpg
    I have done that several times (because of views or whatever..) but yes it is a great spot for condensation .
    Just 10 feet or so above that riverside level will make the difference.

  15. #35
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    +100 on the ATSKO Silicone Water Guard,the stuff is amazing.
    I actually stopped seam sealing my tents every year with reg "paint on"stuff and just soak the fly and all the seams of the body with it....no issues.
    Wal-mart about $5.

  16. #36

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    With as much research, science and trail testing that takes place we should be able to become comfortable with the fact that there's only so much we can do to overcome/manage the effects of mother nature on us and our equipment. Do the prudent things (seam seal, ground cloth, maximize ventilation, site selection) and live with the results. There's nothing wrong with taking a small chamois or PVA towel to do an occasional wipe down of your tent in extreme conditions. Most of the time it probably won't be needed.

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    the maddening thing is the inconsistency of when and when we don't get condensation....common wisdom is that you camp high, away from water. Last trip, when we camped right next to a river, down in a valley, we got zero condensation...then next night we camped up on a ridge, far from water, and had condensation. You just never know!

  18. #38
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    "Last trip, when we camped right next to a river, down in a valley, we got zero condensation...then next night we camped up on a ridge, far from water, and had condensation."
    That is a very good example of why people should not take too much note of first time use reviews.
    Reminds me of these two comments I spotted a couple of years ago about the same tent, on different forums, within a day or two of each other
    "bone dry, no condensation whatsoever"
    "a condensation machine"
    Both comments probably correct , different place , different time...

  19. #39
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    cuben fiber!

  20. #40

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bronk View Post
    If it rains you're going to get wet. If you don't want to get wet, stay home.
    This is just untrue. If it were true I would have been dead a long time ago in nonstop butt cold 35F rains. I may get wet but we're not talking about a single human body getting wet, we're talking about a tent and the inside of a tent getting wet and our gear getting wet. It just doesn't happen with careful planning.

    Quote Originally Posted by q-tip View Post
    Misting is an unfortunate trade off for single wall tents.
    So don't use single wall tents and don't use tents with an inner made of mesh. Problem 85% solved. What's more important, a lighter weight shelter or staying dry?

    Quote Originally Posted by Franco View Post


    If, when you get up in the morning, after a non rainy night , the grass is wet, the tent fly (over and under) will be wet irrespective if it is a single or double wall tent.
    Any brand, any fabric.

    True, but when you have a decent full canopy inner tent with no mesh this water attached to the inside of the tent fly is of no consequence. My silnylon tent fly is drenched with condensation at times and in the vestibule in a hard rain I can feel little drops of misting rain hit me from the vestibule fly. Thing is, none of this misting reaches me thru the tent canopy and definitely none of it reaches my gear.

    Quote Originally Posted by Namtrag View Post
    the maddening thing is the inconsistency of when and when we don't get condensation....common wisdom is that you camp high, away from water. Last trip, when we camped right next to a river, down in a valley, we got zero condensation...then next night we camped up on a ridge, far from water, and had condensation. You just never know!
    You do not even need a human body inside to produce condensation. I left a tent up in an open meadow all night empty and in the morning the inside of the fly was saturated.

    A good tent, a well made tent, will not leak and will not compromise any of your gear except in the most narrow of circumstances: i.e. a sleet or snowstorm with saturated air and cold temps whereby you sit put in hunker mode for a day or even for 3 or 4 days and don't take down the tent. THEN the inner canopy walls can get either wet with condensation droplets or icy with a film of frozen condensation. It helps to pack up every day and allow the tent to be rolled up and set up after a day's hiking. Then all the canopy water or ice will be dislodged and you can either sponge it out or sweep out the ice. If it's bad enough you could end up with a liter or ice crystals in a wad on the tent floor.

    Otherwise a good 4 season tent will not leak, period. It will have a fly hydrostatic head of at least 3000mm and a floor of at least 7000mm. These numbers are important.

    I love all the answers so far on this thread:

    ** Use cuben as it's 100% dry. What, cuben never has condensation??
    ** Seal the seams. Misting is not a seam problem, that's an actual leakage problem.
    ** Spray floor with water repellent---not needed on a decent tent.
    ** If water penetrates tent fly you need a waterproofing spray. Not on a decent silnylon or urethane poly fly.

    ** Increase air flow---but often in the worst rainstorms no part of the tent fly can be opened.
    ** Better site selection---this is always the answer from folks using substandard equipment. A good 4 season tent can handle ground water or horizontal 60mph rain or blizzards---anything short of a falling tree, a lightning strike or a tornado.

    ** Use a rag to dry out the tent or dry off the tent fly. Don't need it with a double wall tent except in those rare cold conditions as mentioned above.

    And I agree with Martinb---put your ground cloth inside the tent. If it rains hard enough in the mountains of TN or Georgia or NC you will on occasion get ground water and lake effect. A good tent floor with you sitting on it will not allow water to seep thru. A 3000mm floor is not enough.

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