Glacier NP hike-about

[magic_game03]

I’m planning a hike-about Glacier National Park this summer (3 weeks beginning of August) and I’m looking for hiker tips. I’m pretty much interested in anything that will be of interest inside or on the border of the park.

Also, I’m interested in a few particulars. Are there any natural hot springs, ones that are non-commercial, IN the park? How about the fire towers, can they be accessed or are they for official use only? I plan on flying into Spokane and taking the rail to West Glacier, any problems with that plan? I see a few different park passes, since I’m not driving and I plan on hiking/hitching into the park which pass would you recommend? Did anybody use the tour busses in Glacier and if so what was the fee? Was it a one-way, daily, or weekly options on the pass? Did anyone have a chance to compare lodges? Do any of the lodges have AYCE’s? Does anybody have any info about Kalispell or the surrounding areas, little villages that I should check out or stay away from? Also, I have AT&T, does anybody know if there is or is not service on the West or East side of the park?


My wife told me a few days ago that I could go for three weeks so I’m just now starting to plan.

Thanks,

Hellkat

[Spirit Walker]

Are you intending to mostly dayhike or mostly backpack? I don't know the west side very well, as I've spent more time on the east side except for an overnight trip to Polebridge. There are a couple of hiker hostels in East Glacier. Several good campgrounds in the park make good basecamps or can be part of a longer backcountry hike. The lodges are very expensive, but there are a couple of motels that aren't as bad at St. Mary's and Swiftcurrent. All of the trails in Glacier are good ones. Getting backcountry permits can be a problem in prime season, but if you're flexible, you can make it work. Hitching can be very slow. The buses are good, but fairly expensive.

[burger]

FYI you'll need permits to camp overnight in the park. All campsites are by reservation only.

[gypsy97]

Here is a link to a Glacier travel guide written by a former ranger at the park. I am sure you can find a lot of answers to your questions. Good luck and have a wonderful time. I was at Glacier in June a couple of years ago and most of the roads were snowed in, but what I did get to see was spectacular.
http://www.glacier-national-park-tra...rk-hiking.html

Gypsy

[Slo-go'en]

Marta is our local Glacier expert on WB. She's probably comment.

There are no hot springs that I know of, you have to go to Yellowstone for those. No firetowers either, but you don't need them for a view. At best you climb to the top of a pass. Going to a summit is a serious undertaking. The west side is a lot wetter then the east side of the divide, so it's a lot greener on the west. It's also a lot steeper since the east side. The only shuttle goes along the "going to the sun" road, which I highly recommend (it's a totaly insane ride and it is free) You can access a number of trails from that road.

Here's my video from my trip out there 2 summers ago to give you an idea of what you can see. I really would like to go back and wander around some more, especially the west side. We primarly hiked the CDT segment on the east side.

[Slo-go'en]

Oh, I forgot. The East Glacier lodge provides shuttles and thier not too expensive. $10 to 20 depending on where you go. They fill up quickly, so be sure to make reservations at least the day before. You have to pay to actually enter the park, so if your going in and out a lot, get a pass. The lodges are wicked expensive, about $150 a night if I remember right. There are inexpensive hostels in E. Glacier, not sure of W. Glacier. The Youth hostel in E. Glacier can be really noisy. The one behind the Mexican resturant is typically quieter.

[chiefiepoo]

Happy to speak up here about Glacier NP. This year will be my 7th year at the Park. No doubt Marta will check in here if she is not buried under tons of snow. I, too, arrive by train. Usually it is late coming in and I stay my first night at The Glacier Highland Resort which is directly across the street from the train station in West Glacier. You will be arriving around 8:30 am from Spokane so if you have not had breakfast, walk over to the restaurant by the gas station and have some huckleberry pancakes and coffee. It's great. If you have flown in and need fuel, there is a general store in WG village. Make the decision, now, to buy the bear spray if you are going into the back country. It is about $50. Walk into the park or hitch. I have done both but was once chastised by rangers for hitching ion sight of the pay barrier. There is a trail starting just past the pay station that will take you to Apgar village where the main transit depot is located. Look around the village and check the ranger station for back country permit avail if you have not done so by mail. In Apgar CG, Sprague CG and Avalanche Creek CG ( west side) there are hiker / biker sites reserved for those on foot or bikes. You will have to share if more show up. Sprague Creek is my favorite CG. Right on the lake, with in walking distance of Lake McDonald lodge (restaurant , beer, pizza) . By August the lake is very swimmable. Walking around on the west side, acclimate by doing the Avalanche creek trail and the loop from McDonald lodge up and around McDonald creek. Take a day to do Highline from Logan Pass down to the Loop. You can access most west side trail heads using the free shuttle. Hike to Hidden Lake. On the near east side, after switching shuttles at the Pass hike up and over Seyah Pass. This is one spectacular day long walk. Start early don't miss the last shuttle. On the east side there are hiker biker sites at Many Glacier CG, Sunrise CG, and Two Medicine. Saint Mary's has them too but there are much better places to go. Hike days ought to include Iceberg lake, Grinnell Glacier out of Many Glacier. Upper Two Medicine lake is a good day hike too.
Unless you have lots of $$$ skip the red bus tours, you can see as much by the free shuttle albeit without narration. As mentioned above the East side shuttle running north and south charges by a zone scheme but it is cheap and generally reliable.

For over night and backpacking try getting your permits now as they are allocate dafter April 15th. My recommendations for solo traveler are Gunsight Pass from Jackson Glacier overlook to McDonald lodge 2-3 nights, Swift Current Pass from Many Glacier, and down the Belly river trail from Chief Mtn ranger station to Many Glacier .

As to lodges, I've stayed at Swift Currrent motor lodge, it has rustic cabins. Lake Mc Donald is expensive but as a solo traveler why spend the $$. I have also stayed with the Glacier Institute during an educational stay. Google their web site for educational opportunities. Glacier Guides has full expedition services, but at a high cost. They are very good at what they do.

I'll be there in August, too. Best time of the season IMHO. Berries are abundant for the bears and you, most snow hazards are lessened and staff has worked out the kinks for most operations. Maybe see you there.

[Feral Bill]

If it's running on time (it often isn't ) Amtrack is in the middle of the night. Transferring from the airport could by an issue. If you arrive early, take the bus downtown, and get a meal. Riverfront Park is a nice place to wait around. It's a shortish walk to th train, but not pleasant late at night. You may spend several hours waitin for the train, so bring a book. Glacier's awesome have fun.

[hobby]

Flathead Transportation 800-829-7039 I have used them for transportation to Kalispel, airport, West Glacier, Whitfish, etc. Reasonable and on-time.

[magic_game03]

[Sprit Walker]

My plan is to hike as much of the park as I possibly can in three weeks. Due to the time of year with nearly maximum sun I believe I can knock out about 500 miles in a leisurely pace. So mostly hiking with some slack-packing loops. Can you tell me about some of the hiker hostels? I will be in need of some laundry services and probably a place I can pick up canister fuel.

[Burger]

Really? I’ll need permits? (I hope you note the sarcasm.) Telling me I need permits after I asked, “which permit should I get?” doesn’t really help.

[Gypsy97]

Thanks for the link. I plan on hitting GNP in August so I expect most of the snow will be cleared out, with only glacial snow left. I wonder if early August will be flower season?

[Slo-go’en]

Thanks for ALL the info. Question though, you say no fire towers but I see them all over the map. Also, I’ve Goolge-imaged them and I know they exist. Are you saying that they are for official use only and I can’t climb the stairs to get a view?

[Chiefiepoo]

Thanks for your long response. I will have to read your response a few times and digest/process the info and I’m sure I will get back to you with some questions. Give me a day or so.

Thanks everyone who has posted so far and I will be posting back in a day or so for more info and hopefully something from Marta will appear too.

[magic_game03]

[Feral Bill]

Yea, I already noticed that the train (North West Passage train) leaving Spokane leaves at 1 in the morning. Probably have to find a bar stool for a few hours while I wait around Spokane. ☺

[Hobby]

Thanks for the local transportation info.

[Spirit Walker]

You don't need fire towers to get views. The views are terrific from the trails. One of the most beautiful places I've ever seen was the Pitamakin Pass to Dawson Pass hike. Do it in good weather as it is pretty exposed, but it is truly spectacular. There is a Laundromat in East Glacier. August is past flower season, I think. Could be fire season.

[Different Socks]

FYI you'll need permits to camp overnight in the park. All campsites are by reservation only.

I hope you don't mean "all backcountry" campsites. Every area of the backcountry that has campsites has several available each day for "walkups".

[Marta]

Hi! Yep, I'm practically buried by snow right now. I took this photo this morning on my drive to work.

IMG_4808.jpg

Amtrak is pretty much of a mess--allow at least a day between arriving back in Spokane by train and catching your flight home. You might want to price flights directly to Kalispell. From the airport, a taxi ride to Apgar is about $50.

The distance between the train station in West Glacier and the Backcountry Permit Office is about 2 miles. It's an easy walk. There are two large front-country campgrounds near Apgar--Apgar and Fish Creek. Apgar also has shuttle bus stops. It's much easier for a pedestrian to navigate around the west side of the Park than the east side.

Everyone, including pedestrians and cyclists, is supposed to pay an entry fee to get into GNP. Once you've paid that, the Park shuttle buses from Apgar to Logan Pass, and from Logan Pass to St. Mary, are free. There are some other fee-based shuttles to a few other places. In my experience, hitchhiking is quite easy. Depending on my work schedule, I might be able to help you out.

For a longer trip, you should be able to work out a figure 8 through the Park. August is peak season. It's fairly hard to score backcountry campsites. (It might be cheaper for you to get a season's pass for backcountry camping, rather than paying by the night.) The route for backpacking trips is often dictated more by availability of campsites than by your hiking wish list. A lot of the less-popular backcountry sites are at dead-end trails--Lincoln Lake, Logging Lake, and so on.

The trails are in general well-graded and pretty fine walking. Fully a third of the Park is above treeline--lots of great views.

The two fire lookouts I've been to in GNP are Apgar Lookout and Scalplock, near the Walton entrance to the Park.

My favorite map of the Park, for planning purposes, is National Geographic #215.

I think a new hiker hostel is going to be opening up in East Glacier this summer. I haven't talked to the owner recently, but he bought a property last summer and had started working on the hostel then.

If I were you, I'd enter the campsite lottery as early as possible. If that doesn't work out, just show up and work with the rangers to come up with a route.

If you've got any specific questions, please ask. One of my co-workers in the winter works in the Apgar Backcountry Permit Office during the summer. If I can't answer your question, I'll ask her.

[Different Socks]

There is the 4.5 mile hike to the Scalplock Lookout on the south end of the park along Hwy 2. Amazing views to the north into Glacier from that lookout!! I highly recommend it.

[Different Socks]

Yearly pass for anybody, vehicle or not, is about $30( I have one good til July).

I live about 3 hours east of Glacier and was planning on being there at least every other week in August. We could meet up for a hike or two. I recommend Ptarmigan Pass, Siyeh Pass, No Name Lake, Dawson Pass and there are many others. And they are all good ones.

[Marta]

Here's the website of a guy who hiked all GNP's trails in 2011.

http://www.hike734.com

I heard him speak in Whitefish in January. He had some fantastic photos from his hikes.

[4eyedbuzzard]

I know you are mainly going there for hiking, but consider renting a canoe for a day on one of the non-motorized lakes. Really fun experience.

[Feral Bill]

Are you interested in seeing bears? The Many Glacier area has quite a few. It is a very scenic area with a good campground and numerous hiking opportunities. Well worth considering.

[magic_game03]

After spending a few days immersing myself in GNP info I’m starting to get some firm ideas. First, I think my dates will be Aug 5th – Aug 26th. I know it’s prime tourist season but I have a 7 month old and limited availability to get out. It also looks like the shuttles run from July 1st - Sept. 1st so that will be a big asset.

After looking into flights I will be flying into Glacier Jet Center. I can get the ticket for practically the same price as Spokane and have an extra day or two not spent traveling to-and-from Spokane. Flights into GJC should arrive around 1 P.M. so it’s good timing. I’ll probably rent a car for one day so I can get organized with any gear needs, check out Kalispell, and get to the ranger station early in the morning to get permits (*next paragraph explains why ranger station first thing in the morning), then go return the car.

After checking out the permit system it seems that, on average, about half of all the camp spots are on a walk-in, first-come-first-served basis. Camp spots for walk-in backcountry permits will not be issued more than 24 hours in advance. This is like the Yosemite permit system, which make it very easy for a solo, like me, to get backcountry permits. Coupled with the fact that I don’t have any specific goals, except to enjoy GNP, I can mix it up with ten-mile days or thirty-mile days.

Things I really want to do. I really want to do the entire section of the Pacific Northwest Trail and CDT through the Park. Also, I would like to summit Mt. Cleveland and Mt. Stimson and check out the Ptarmigan Tunnel. So far that’s all that I have. Maybe check out Chief Mountain although I do realize it’s not in the park so I need to call the Blackfoot res. to find out their backcountry fee.

Thanks to everyone who has given some input. I’ve reread all the post multiple times to make sure I didn’t overlook anything that was mentioned. Most especially thanks to all those who left lengthy post or put up videos. Little details help, like knowing where to get delicious huckleberry pancakes or that a quieter hostel may exist behind the Mexican restaurant.


[Still looking for more info so please keep posting if you know something that you didn’t mention before]

Some questions are still lingering…

What is generally bug season? Mosquitos, black flies, non-biting but annoying bug masses?

Do I need to apply for a tourist visa to go up to Waterton Park from the CDT or can I just carry ID and show up there?