Big Creek Campground, Laurel Gap Shelter

[illabelle]

We have plans this weekend to car-camp Friday night at Big Creek Campground on the northeast end of the Smokies, then backpack Saturday and Sunday on a 24-mile loop: Baxter Creek, Mt Sterling Ridge, Gunter Fork, Big Creek with an overnight stay at Laurel Gap shelter (yes we have reservations for the shelter).
1. The campground is small and doesn't take reservations. Does it usually fill up each weekend? What nearby options do we have if it's full when we arrive?
2. We've never hiked these trails. Would appreciate a trip report regarding trail conditions including steepness, creek crossings, or other hazards.
3. I'm leaning towards doing the loop clockwise so we can see the waterfalls, Gunter Fork Cascades, Mouse Creek Falls, and Midnight Hole Falls on our way out. Any reason to consider counter-clockwise?

[centerfieldr162]

The only thing I have to offer is that I've hiked Mt Sterling Ridge and it was frigid cold and the wind was howling. It was January when I went but I've heard it's notorious for always being cooler up there and having gusts of wind most days.

[PatmanTN]

illabelle,

Though not really conveniently close, there are lots of car camp options on 321 near Cosby. I'd guess a late arrival on a Friday might put you in jeopardy of missing a Big Creek spot. I've used the AT just outside of the park to essentially car camp when arriving late. There is a site near a nice spring just south of the Big Creek access road where the AT crosses and it's not that far in. But it's not car camping.

I would rather do the loop as you've described because I find Baxter Creek far easier to hike up than down. But be aware that it gains 4200 feet in just over 6 miles. The only views are from the tower and totally worth the climb. The second flight of steps has a rotten board that someone marked with caution tape two weeks ago. Be careful.

The BMT in general gets far less maintenance than the AT of course and right now the trail between Pretty Hollow Gap and Laurel Gap is a bit closed in with briars and nettle. I'd recommend long pants despite the heat.

Gunter is outstanding. There are some eroded spots high up on the trail which make it pretty rugged but otherwise that's an amazingly pristine valley with excellent water falls and a beautiful understory.


Have Fun! Say hello to M for me.

[illabelle]

illabelle,

Though not really conveniently close, there are lots of car camp options on 321 near Cosby. I'd guess a late arrival on a Friday might put you in jeopardy of missing a Big Creek spot. I've used the AT just outside of the park to essentially car camp when arriving late. There is a site near a nice spring just south of the Big Creek access road where the AT crosses and it's not that far in. But it's not car camping.

I would rather do the loop as you've described because I find Baxter Creek far easier to hike up than down. But be aware that it gains 4200 feet in just over 6 miles. The only views are from the tower and totally worth the climb. The second flight of steps has a rotten board that someone marked with caution tape two weeks ago. Be careful.

The BMT in general gets far less maintenance than the AT of course and right now the trail between Pretty Hollow Gap and Laurel Gap is a bit closed in with briars and nettle. I'd recommend long pants despite the heat.

Gunter is outstanding. There are some eroded spots high up on the trail which make it pretty rugged but otherwise that's an amazingly pristine valley with excellent water falls and a beautiful understory.


Have Fun! Say hello to M for me.

Will do.
Thanks for the trail info. Very helpful. I read a report from someone who got caught in a downpour on Gunter Fork and had to ford thigh-high swift water! Hopefully we won't have any drama, just cool temps, and a good workout.

[doingtime]

I'm waiting for 37 to open to do a similar loop. Sounds like a great trip.

I'm also wondering about Big Creek on the weekends. Will you please report back (or PM me?). I would appreciate it. I've been to Cataloochee several times but haven't been to Big Creek yet. Had planned on it this month, but the closures shut me down.

Your route looks really nice, I wish I could join you!

[illabelle]

I'm waiting for 37 to open to do a similar loop. Sounds like a great trip.

I'm also wondering about Big Creek on the weekends. Will you please report back (or PM me?). I would appreciate it. I've been to Cataloochee several times but haven't been to Big Creek yet. Had planned on it this month, but the closures shut me down.

Your route looks really nice, I wish I could join you!

I'd be happy to report back.

I'm mildly intimidated by what I've read about this trail. Mudslides, deep fords, steep rutted trail, slow going, overgrown vegetation. We've planned 12 miles each day, which might be challenging under those conditions. On the other hand, really looking forward to the cool temperatures and the time in the woods. We're so fortunate to live within a couple hours of these beautiful mountains. We've been to Mt Sterling a time or three, but I think this is the deepest we've ventured into the park without being on the AT. Laurel Gap Shelter shows to be full, so we should have plenty of company out there.

I think we'll follow Patman's suggestion and just grab a spot in a private campground Friday night. Not as convenient, but whatever. Our hike will still start at Big Creek, so we'll get there early enough to see whether there are any open spots. Seems unlikely.

[HooKooDooKu]

If considering Cosby, you might want to consider just going strait to Cosby Campground. There's not very many spots at Big Creek, and if it is full when you get there, you've got a 30 minute drive to Cosby. Cosby is so big and so relatively remote compared to the popular camp grounds that you'll always be able to get a spot. Only holiday weekends can make finding a campsite a Cosby a challenge. I don't have any 1st hand knowledge of the local private campgrounds.

I hiked Gunther Fork about three weeks ago. At that time, it was POSSIBLE to rock-hop all the creek crossings. The only one that was a challenge to rock-hop was the crossing of Big Creek because it required balancing on a wet log. The region has gotten very little rainfall in the last few weeks, so the creek crossing shouldn't be a big deal. But you will want to bring water shoes so you don't force yourself to rock-hop anything you're not comfortable with.

The only reason I can think to hike the loop counter-clock wise would be just so the trail isn't so steep for so long. Like PantmanTN said, 4,000 feet in 6 miles non-stop. By comparison, Gunther Fork is "only" 2,300' in 4 miles.

The other thing to consider... water. There's a few creek crossings at the bottom of Baxter in the first mile or so. After that, it's pretty much a dry trail from what I recall. There is a water source for #38. It is located about 0.15 miles DOWN a side trail that drops about 150' that you have to turn around and re-climb. I seem to recall there is a sign marking the side trail located about 0.2 miles BEFORE #38 when hiking up Baxter.

Mount Sterling Ridge trail is one of the most muddiest trails I've ever hike anywhere in the Smokies (and I've hiked about 75% of them so far). Basically it is a flat trail that is rutted just enough that rain water doesn't run off of it. In stead it just sits there. The section between #38 and Swallow Fork/Pretty Hollow has spots where the mud is the full width of the trail (10'-15' in spots). Things are a little bit better after the 4-way intersection on the way to Laural Gap. Perhaps the recent lack of rain in the area means the trail won't be all that muddy for you.

The water source at Laural Gap is about 0.1 miles down a trail right out in front of the shelter. However, you can avoid that walk if you water up as one of the seeps along the trail heading to the Balsam Mount Trail/Mount Sterling intersection. If you're coming from #38, there's a good seep about 0.4 miles shy of the intersection. If you're coming from Gunther Fork, the seep is located about 0.1 miles shy of the intersection.

[illabelle]

Good points, Hookoo. Will print out this thread for reference on the trail.

[illabelle]

We camped Friday night at Cosby Campground. Plenty of empty campsites, most of them shady and roomy. Made a small campfire, first one in a long time. Next morning drove to Big Creek area, parked and started the Baxter Creek Trail a little before 9:00. Trail begins by crossing the bridge over the creek. Then it's a steady unrelenting uphill for 6 miles. Thankfully it never got steep. The trail was clear and in good shape.

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This tree is wearing a wreath.

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Nearly all of the large trees were dead, as seen in this photo of three in a row. Most have already lost their tops, many lie on the ground. In some places the increase in sunlight was changing the vegetation. Moss was drying out and dying, undergrowth was flourishing.

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This tree had greenery growing in "planter boxes".

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Here and there rhododendron and laurel carpeted the path.

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One of the views from the Mt Sterling tower. Windy up there! A steady stream of people came by as we rested there for 30 minutes. Talked to some young people from Kentucky. One of them was excited to talk to "real AT hikers" because he wants to hike the trail someday. As noted above, one of the tower steps needs to be replaced. The back third of the tread has broken off, a little unnerving. The room at the top doesn't seem very safe. The floor looks weak, the windows weren't latched and moved with the wind. The metal sheet that enclosed the lower half of the room was loose in at least one place. Definitely worth the climb, but don't plan on relaxing up there. Views from the top are very nice.

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Most of the Baxter Creek and Mount Sterling Ridge Trails were fairly clear. View below is typical.

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A few places had overgrowth. This is a mild case.

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Beautiful sea of ferns.

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We shared Laurel Gap Shelter with 5 others. It was roomy, and except for a few things in the outdoor firepit, it was clean. No privy. We did not visit the water source, instead getting our water from one of the streams 15-30 minutes to the north. Those who did go after water were gone a long time.

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Two of our sheltermates were a father and son from NC who had been coming here for many years. The father told a bear story:
He had been camping out 40 years ago at Walnut Bottom in the winter. There was snow on the ground. Thinking the bears would surely be hibernating, he leaned his pack against a tree outside his tent. Just as he was falling asleep, he heard his pack being dragged down the trail. He came out of the tent barefoot in his underwear with a big 6V flashlight and a stick, and chased that bear for what seemed like half a mile. He got his pack back, but the bear followed him back to his tent. It took a couple hours, but he managed to start a fire there in the snow. The bear stayed there all night on the other side of the fire watching him, waiting for an opportunity to snatch his pack again. He didn't get much sleep!

We got a good start Sunday morning, leaving the shelter before 8:00. Gunter Fork Trail was seriously overgrown in several places. Below is an average case. There were areas quite a bit worse with a lot of thick head and shoulder high growth. The trail was very narrow, in some places barely two boots wide tilting towards a steep slope. Where the weeds were high and thick, you could barely see where you were putting your feet. I wished I'd had a machete - it would have been worth the weight.

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This is the view approaching the slide area from a couple years ago. Not much vegetation - I guess the soil is stable now? Below the trail a raw ravine was created by the slide, and cut deeply into the slope. We joked that in NH, the ravine would BE the trail!

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After a mostly dry ridge walk, the water on Gunter Fork was a welcome sight and sound. After the fords I understood why the trail is impassable in high water. The trail goes back and forth across the creek for a little ways, and is only a 2-3 feet above the water in many areas. Being closed in with steep slopes on both sides, the trail could easily be underwater in a significant rain. Below is the last Gunter Fork ford where we were expecting an over-the-knee crossing. In the photo my husband is testing a skinny little log. We carried water shoes, but found a way across and didn't need them.

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I counted space for 20 horses at Walnut Bottom campsites. #36 was open and occupied. #37 was posted "closed due to aggressive bear activity." From this point until the campground the trail was usually wide enough for a jeep.

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An actual bridge crossed over to the Big Creek Trail, where we stopped for a while to eat lunch, wade, and relax. Pretty flowers beside the trail.

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Mouse Creek Falls below. From here back to the campground, the trail was crowded with people coming to swim in the creek. Midnight Hole was so crowded we didn't even try to get a picture.

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Summary, 12 miles from Big Creek Campground to Laurel Gap Shelter via Baxter Creek Trail and Mt Sterling Ridge Trail. 12 miles back to the campground via Balsam Mountain Trail, Gunter Fork Trail, Camel Gap Trail, Low Gap Trail, and finally Big Creek Trail.

Only wildlife were a rabbit, another rodent about the size of a rabbit, a grouse, an assortment of insects, an assortment of small birds, one slug, and a couple dozen snails.
If you have questions about the trail, ask before I forget everything.

[HooKooDooKu]

Nice trip report... but I'm surprised you didn't say a thing about the Gunter Fork water slide (at the 1st water crossing coming down hill... if I'm remembering correctly). That huge, two-stage water slide took my breath away... one of the few times I've seen something in GSMNP and all I could say was "WOW".

[illabelle]

Nice trip report... but I'm surprised you didn't say a thing about the Gunter Fork water slide (at the 1st water crossing coming down hill... if I'm remembering correctly). That huge, two-stage water slide took my breath away... one of the few times I've seen something in GSMNP and all I could say was "WOW".

I should have! I'd seen a few pictures of it before we went, but it was a lot different in three dimensions. The photos I took didn't portray it well, so I didn't post them. The water slide was pretty, though the water volume wasn't particularly strong. We stayed there for a 15-minute break and played with the rocks, stacking them to make the "dam" a little higher.

[daddytwosticks]

Very nice trip report. Thanks for posting.

[doingtime]

Campsite 36 is still showing to be closed with the GSMNP reservation system (just checked). I imagine some people do not heed the warnings and do not obtain the required reservations anyway.

Thanks for the trip report! I'm so doing this!

[doingtime]

Were there many people at campsite #38 (Mt Sterling)?

[illabelle]

Were there many people at campsite #38 (Mt Sterling)?

We got there mid-day, so can't really say how many people would have camped there. We spoke with a couple of guys who were planning to, but don't know of any others.

[illabelle]

Campsite 36 is still showing to be closed with the GSMNP reservation system (just checked). I imagine some people do not heed the warnings and do not obtain the required reservations anyway.

Thanks for the trip report! I'm so doing this!

Actually I might have 36/37 mixed up. The first one headed north was occupied and no signs were posted to indicate that it was closed. It was late morning, so the occupants might not have stayed there overnight. Maybe they just stopped for a rest?

Don't know when you plan on doing this trip, but I'm serious about the machete (or something more than trekking poles). Either that or plan on thrashing and stomping your way through. Of course, if you're doing this next spring, maybe you'll catch it before the overgrowth.

[madgoat]

I really love that area of the park. I don't know how many times I have hiked past the Gunther Fork trail sign and it had a CLOSED notice stapled to it.... It is a nice trail though. Sterling can be wonderful if the weather is cooperative.

Last time I was up there, we camped at the campsite. We had clear views when we got there. We had a clear night of stargazing from the tower and observing the distant town lights. And the sunrise was spectacular.

38 is always a hopping place to stay, so I am not surprised that there were people camping there even though the campsite is closed and they didn't have reservations. I wonder if the $4 per night fee has increased or decreased the amount of people that make backcountry reservations for their trips. (that is to say, how many people are camping illegally as opposed to legally.) I have spent lots of nights in the park over the last 20 years or so and have never been approached by a ranger at a backcountry shelter/campsite to inquire if I had a permit for that campsite. Supposedly they stepped up the enforcement when they put the fee in place, and I have heard a few personal accounts from others that seems to indicate that the enforcement has stepped up, but I still haven't witnessed it. (though I always get my permit and almost always stick to my itinerary)

Great trip report. Glad you had a good time illabelle!

[HooKooDooKu]

Nice trip report... but I'm surprised you didn't say a thing about the Gunter Fork water slide...

I should have! ... The photos I took didn't portray it well, so I didn't post them.

I'm NOT surprised that you didn't post a picture. The thing is huge and gorgeous... but you're right up against it. There's just no way to get a picture from the trail that would possibly do it justice.

[doingtime]

36 and 37 are still closed due to bear activity, as is the Cosby Shelter. I have been checking every day for the last two weeks as I had reservations for 37 and 38 a few weeks ago and was going to do that loop and had to cancel my plans (went to Grayson Highlands and had a great time instead).

I'm thinking of getting reservations at 38 and just doing the Big Creek/Shallow Fork to Mount Sterling in one day. Looks like 11 or so miles. Just not sure about the climb to Mt Sterling at the end of the day.

What do you think?

[HooKooDooKu]

I'm thinking of getting reservations at 38 and just doing the Big Creek/Shallow Fork to Mount Sterling in one day. Looks like 11 or so miles. Just not sure about the climb to Mt Sterling at the end of the day.

What do you think?

First of all, 11 miles is pretty much spot on based on my distance information.
I don't recall the climb up Swallow Fork to be that big of a deal. Of course I started at BC#37. You're just front loading that with the 5 mile 1,000' climb "warm up" hike to #37.
I would say that if you are used to 11 mile hikes in GSMNP, then doing it all in one day shouldn't be a big deal.
While the walk along Big Creek is nice, I don't recall anything special about Swallow Fork. So if you're goal is simply to get to #38, you might just want to take the "short cut" strait up Baxter (me, I'm trying to get in all the trails in the park, so I'd go up Swallow Fork).

If you do go up Swallow Fork, you've got a big decision to make regarding water. From that direction, the #38 water source is more than 1/3 of a mile BEYOND the camp site and 300' DOWN. So you'll have to add 2/3 of a mile to your hike and an extra 300' climb to the end of your hike... OR... carry water from Swallow Fork.

About 2-3/4 miles up Swallow Fork, the trail makes a 180º turn to the left... that's your last reliable water source on the way to #38. So you want to avoid the extra walk BEYOND the camp site, you'll have to carry all the water you need the last ~3 miles and 1,500' in elevation.